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Here's a pic of the backside. The brackets are mounted that way for storage. There are two more nuts & bolts that you can't see, that are used to mount the brackets in the proper orientation.

The only missing items are the nuts & bolts for mounting. The brackets are there. I'll take another pic tonight.

If anyone is interested. $125 New, DII radiator, never used $75 Southdown skid plate, used, no hardware $25 New, never used jackall Make offer (2) used 751 springs, I don't know how miles or years they were used, no pics No shipping, will meet in Atlanta area

I bought it from Atlantic British. I honestly don't know if it's an aftermarket or original equipment; I don't remember. Disco-drum: they're neapco. riceybean has called dibbs on these. If it doesn't go through, you can have them if you're interested.

I have a few things for sale, and two, used, OME 751 springs I can throw in for someone or at someone, your choice. Jackall-NEVER USED, $50 Radiator for DII-new $225 (still somewhat packaged) U-joints for DII-new $20.........................................................SOLD I would rather...

You can "rent" the same ball joint kit from Advance. The worst part of the job is removing the knuckles, @$%&! :banghead:

The pickle fork won't work to separate the knucle from the axel. It will fit in the gap, but you're not going to be able to separate two ball joints with one pickle fork. The ball joints are pressed in and the nuts are torqued to about 110 ft-lb. The nuts get removed first, but one fork isn't...

Jafir; I think listerdiesel answered your question. The pickle fork will only work on the track / trailing / tie / steering rod(s), whatever you want to call them. But if you use the fork on those, plan on replacing the entire rod too, because the joints are pressed and crimped into the rod(s)...

By far, the worst part of this, is separating the knuckle from the axle. I would think an air powered hammer would really help. Otherwise, you're using a hand operated, air-cooled, hammer. :banghead: Not fun! Either of the presses will work. The one from cromwell looks like what I used.

It is a PITA if you don't have the right tools. I used a kit from Harbor Freight and after two days of fighting, two evenings after work actually, I returned it. The screw was way too long and not enough adapters. I "rented" a kit from Advance. The screw was noticeably shorter and it had...

Passenger side door lock shipped to 30135

Not for removing the knuckle...at least on mine. It works great on the small ball joints though.

So here is what I found so far with the tare down: lower ball joints are toast, uppers are in good working order; however, I'm replacing them too. The other ball joints, pan-hard, tie rod, track rod, will get replaced; one piece at a time. The track rod is an assembly and the whole thing gets...

Super Girl is only good for a couple things.

Thanks Messar, the first link was what I needed. The price for these ball joint tools is ridiculous! I'll give the Harbor Freight tool a shot first. ($70) Mr. T., I completely agree. However, the boots on my lower joints are shot. So while I'm in there... Thanks for the help.

I'm taking the mecahnic's word that the ball joints need replacing. So, with new ones in hand and everything apart, I still can't remove the steering knuckle.:banghead: My question/s: On the bottom of the knuckle, where the ball joint post pokes through, there is a nut. What is it? Do I...

Glad I could be of service

Yes, upper and lower, both sides. Maybe that's why the repair quote was $750!

Looks like it's the ball joints; both sides. How difficult of a fix is this for a shadetree mechanic?

The only thing I've done is brake pads on the rear. I'll have someone shake it. Thanks.