Recent content by kris812

On RobertFs ECU for GEMS app you can convert an ECU from 4.0 to 4.6 with a tick box. No clue what it does but it's there for a reason! Also general OBD2 systems will compensate for a lot of things. Extra displacement or compression shouldn't change anything as long as injector pulses can keep...

I think it's possible the sway bar bushings are holding the bar really tight and making for a rough ride.. When I get around to it I'm going to pull off both front and rear sway bars, then do something to the front to make smoother..

Hey was your front end so hard with TF springs that whenever you push down on the bumper it doesn't really squat at all? The back moves some, front feels like it's got rubber blocks for springs! Curious!

I put one of these on.. If I go out camping or deep into the desert I disconnect the battery! Or if Rover going to sit for a few months I'll cut it off to save the battery.

I have a TF medium lift and poly bushings everywhere.. And it rides like crap! First vehicle I've done poly bushings and regretted it.. Had a hot wheels race car inches off the ground with full poly that road better than this Disco..

BTW, on the D1 the hvac blower switch is unobtainium.. However you can use the Rear AC/blower switch (that gets used less) in the front as well.

Ya on my D1 I've had multiple blower switches in it, even took it apart and refreshed them some. Terrible switch! But OP is D2 and electronic switch and said he swapped head units already. So doubtful it's that, unless both head units are bad, rare..

Reading this closely all along BECAUSE I TICK when first started cold after a day.. Bad lifter I'm sure.. but, I run a FRAM filter and after reading everything thats a bad thing for start up oil pressure?? Am I getting that correctly that a WIX filter did the most good for startup pressures?

On my D1 I can pull the coil pack without removing the intake.. it's a real PITA and sore knees and chest from laying on the engine.. but it's very possible do to without any issues.

Broken brake booster diaphragm, causing a huge vacuum leak?? Ask me how I know...

Just a guess, but sounds like a relay could bad.. High is normally separate than other speeds (on other cars). Really though, having swapped all other components this is about all that's left.. And relays do fail..

Put a Flowcooler on an old 80s Jeep as it just crawls in the desert it's whole life and overheated in 122F weather at slow speeds.. 100% fixed the issue! Flows like a SOB at idle now. If I EVER change water pumps on anything, Flowkooler will be my FIRST CHOICE!

I still think you should pull those 2 bolts and RTV the heads and threads as they're below the pan oil level. Nothing to lose trying... On aircraft I would use foot powder to find oil leaks because oil just blows everywhere inside the cowls.

From what I can see in the picture, that bolt is too long and doesn't have threads on it but the last 1/2". It looks bottomed out against the pan? Also looks like bolt on other side is the same and leaking as well. If it's anything like some T case bolts, the bolts themselves need sealant on them.

The amplifier above the passenger right kick panel underneath the dash should be a starting point.. To be installed correctly they would have by passed the factory AMP. Odds are wires were never put in right or not everything was bypassed and you're hearing the factory amplifier THD total...