Recent content by DiscoClay

huh, maybe that hp24 part made a bigger diff than I thought it did. :) 370k klicks isn't bad though ~230K miles. I mean, it should last longer than the engine but still...not a complete writeoff. This is why you need an R380 :cool:

Hey, hey, hey! That is a fabulous and radically under-appreciated engine :-) I put >300k miles on that 750iL (with 4HP24) and the engine didn't quit; the tranny did. It would actually make a great transplant engine for a RRC or d1 :-) all aluminum, light weight, 300hp/330lbft.. smooooooth...

I put a 120v plug socket in the Starboard fender and added a NOCO trickle charger.. so I just plug the truck in.

I know this is an ancient thread but I just want to add a note here: the 1988-1992 E32 M70 V12 BMW (aka: 750i/750iL) made 300hp stock and used the HP22. Also, Dinan Engineering made a twin-turbo version that made >400hp and ~500lb-ft. This turbo car was warrantied to 50K miles. The tranny...

As I said. I am not "anti-multimeter". I am just pro-test-light.. especially for the "gross testing" evolution. These days, I suspect crappy quality diodes in the H-bridge rectifier as the initial culprit :-)

A test light is also *quite professional*, I and my master mechs have used them for years :p The benefit: you can see it... Especially if you are testing fuses and relays from various locations. Be careful using the ampere function on your multimeter (*have a spare fuse or two on hand) because...

And here I thought Ole' Alfred had actually gone up in value (never look at the KBB value.. it's depressing)

Thats not a mistake.. it's stupidity...or fraud. Why would someone bid up a no-reserve auction without any intent to actually buy?

5th graders are remarkably lucid with basic instructions.. it's us post-puberty types that overcomplicate things. :) Here is a better description: 0. turn the key OFF 1. Disconnect the Negative Cable from the Battery Terminal. 2. connect a lightbulb (an LED will probably work fine too)...

Step zero: turn the ignition off. Step one: wire a light between one of the battery terminals and it's lug (in this case, I put the light between the negative lug and the negative terminal cables). /// result: lightbulb illuminates, indicating current flowing Step two: Remove all fuses from...

I am dealing with a drain as well; but my NAS 95 disco is running the stock 14CUX computer (aka: "pre-GEMS"). I currently have it narrowed down to the main fuel injection circuit (the 60 amp fuse under the hood) and the alternator circuit.. I suspect the alternator circuit is a red herring (or...

I'm blown away by how much pre-GEMS, pre-OBD2 stick shifts are going for [aka: 1995 NAS manual]. Maybe I'll treat Alfred to a fresh paint job.. and a new driver seat :-)

Wow. 14.5. Even if I could print my own world reserve currency AND spend most of it on building a cherry D1... that number would still be impressive.

wow. This is getting really interesting.

I have been looking into electric oil boost pumps and am not really satisfied with what I have found so far; the affordable ones are mostly gear pumps.. which tend to shed metal. It may be necessary to convert a drysump scavenger to electric. That said, an accumulator would be relatively cheap...