Recent content by Brian Dickey

I replaced mine with reflective bubble wrap insulation (about 1/4" thick stuff) from Home Depot. I stuck it on there with contact cement by coating the hood and the bubble wrap, waited a bit to let each side get tacky, and slapped it on. I trimmed it first so it doesn't look hokey. Now I wish...

Swapping out my CV joints and found the PO had broken one of the hub drive to hub bolts. Once the hub was off, I got that grade 8 bolt with heat and an ez out. Here's a primer for y'all who have never had the pleasure of a broken bolt...yet...

x2 on the right stuff. Rather spendy at nearly $20 for the can with a trigger but I did the oil pan, front cover, and water pump with more left for the next leak(s).

Remove the swivel ball? don't have to mess with the pins, just the six bolts attaching the swivel ball to the axle and pop the ball joint. Probably a good time to replace the swivel ball seal while you there.

Thanks Kyle for the reply. I've decided to just replace both CVs while I'm in there. The whole "ounce of prevention" thing as I'm worried now about the CV on the passenger side that binds up a bit. That can't be good.

Two questions about the attached picture, is the blue metal an issue or is this from manufacturing and not a concern? And is that crack in the picture serious? I just buttoned up the other side...it had blueing also but not to this extent. The other CV would "catch" or bind up a bit when I moved...

I was dreading the crankshaft pully bolt as well. I had my kid wedge a large flat blade screwdriver between the flywheel ring gear and the adaptor plat per the manual. Got out the big breaker bar and pipe and...the nut was hardly finger tight! :eek: So much for 200 ft lbs. When I refit...

Do I really need to take the radiator out to take off the timing chain cover? I can't get one of the trans cooler lines off and I'm worried that I'll break something. Seems like if I put some really thick cardboard to protect the radiator, there would be enough room to take it off. Thanks

The oil seperator gizmo and valve cover to ram housing hose were completely plugged up with sludge on my disco. I asked on another board about using some kind of engine flush after scraping out the upper end. Apparently, unless your willing to take the intake off and get at the gunk in there...

For thoes of us who have the standard European plug, will this work? http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-13941-wire-assm-7-4-pin-apdter-trailer-towing.aspx

Twenty good lug nuts and both plastic wheel arches that keep road spray from soaking the engine compartment? Oh, and one cross bar from the roof rack. Thanks

Shoot, the Wenatchee area is the place to live in eastern Washington! But you had better be good with a wrench. I've called around to junk yards all over this side of the state. Not a single D1...anywhere. Columbia Rovers has a shop in Yakima (great service).

There's a guy on ebay (from England) selling them or you can find them at British Pacific page 12 of their Disco catalog. After four hours I gave up on the back door. I disconnected the power lock latch and use a small spring from Ace Hardware to supply tension to all that linkage to keep the...

Looks like it's that time for a HG as I have two leaks now (one on each side). Any one have pros/cons to using studs rather than the standard head bolts? D & D has a stud kit for the Rover 4.0L.