ARP Headgasket Oil Leak

ERover82

ERover82

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2011
3,921
459
Darien Gap
ARP Studs Trouble

Noticed oil leaking from around (cylinder 8) head gasket area. It looks like oil splattered outward from that area and then dripped down onto more components. I just rebuilt the engine a little while ago and used ARP head studs torqued to 66 ft-lb. I checked the torque on the exposed head studs and found I got an additional quarter turn or so out of them. What do you guys think? Just re-torque all the rest too and all should be well?
 
Last edited:
J

JohnB

Well-known member
Oct 18, 2007
2,295
12
Oregon
Are composite gaskets OK to use with ARP studs? Before all engines went to stretch bolts it was common to re-torque head bolts.
 
Last edited:
jymmiejamz

jymmiejamz

Well-known member
Dec 5, 2004
6,008
361
35
Los Angeles, Ca
How would a head gasket leak oil externally? I would think that it would just go into the valley. My guess is that you have a leaking lip seal or intake gasket.
 
crown14

crown14

Well-known member
May 11, 2006
6,288
4
Clayton, NC
EricTyrrell said:
Noticed oil leaking from around (cylinder 8) head gasket area. It looks like oil splattered outward from that area and then dripped down onto more components. I just rebuilt the engine a little while ago and used ARP head studs torqued to 66 ft-lb. I checked the torque on the exposed head studs and found I got an additional quarter turn or so out of them. What do you guys think? Just re-torque all the rest too and all should be well?
Click to expand...

I think that when you retorque the heads you should follow the order and not just do the "exposed" bolts.
 
ERover82

ERover82

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2011
3,921
459
Darien Gap
I chose 66 ftlb because many suggested the ARP recommended 80 ftlb was way too high and it was the spec for older RV8s. I'm going to contact ARP about this.

Connection between this and misfire codes? Maybe.

STC1892_1.jpg

Circled above is the area it appears to be leaking from, but looking at the block I don't see any oil passages near there so maybe it's coming from somewhere else. I'll have to take a closer look.
 
eliaschristeas

eliaschristeas

Well-known member
Jul 6, 2006
2,441
5
Beverly HIlls
interesting... i have seen more problems from arp's than anything else recently... they are a good IDEA..... but these 215's arent the motors for them....
 
jymmiejamz

jymmiejamz

Well-known member
Dec 5, 2004
6,008
361
35
Los Angeles, Ca
EricTyrrell said:
I chose 66 ftlb because many suggested the ARP recommended 80 ftlb was way too high and it was the spec for older RV8s. I'm going to contact ARP about this.
Click to expand...

So you didn't follow their torque spec, and now you're going to contact them because your bolts came loose? :rolleyes: If you wanted to follow Land Rover's torque spec, you should use the old style bolts (with the four across the bottom) and a steel gasket.

You may want to consider using TTY bolts and a composite gasket this time around.
 
ERover82

ERover82

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2011
3,921
459
Darien Gap
Yes because it's too high. 80 ftlb can pull the threads out. How would you like that? I'm already using a composite gasket. I'm not the first one to contact them with issues.
 
ERover82

ERover82

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2011
3,921
459
Darien Gap
"Because the head gasket will compress upon initial torquing, make sure studs and bolts are re-torqued after the engine has been run."

That's from ARP and it makes sense, but it's not on their otherwise explicit instructions for the kit. I'll go ahead and re-torque them, but they really should put it on the damn instructions. This still doesn't explain the oil though. Like I said, I'll have to take a closer look later today.
 
FIVESPDDISCO

FIVESPDDISCO

2
Apr 29, 2004
6,776
2
Clarence center
www.lucky8LLc.com
EricTyrrell said:
Yes because it's too high. 80 ftlb can pull the threads out. How would you like that? I'm already using a composite gasket. I'm not the first one to contact them with issues.
Click to expand...

20 60 80 using the rover pattern.

use the lube and double triple check that the bolt holes are clean of oil and coolant.

These stud kits are the only way to go IMO.
 
ERover82

ERover82

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2011
3,921
459
Darien Gap
Just saw a thread where someone tested TTY bolts and found their values to be all over the place. Studs are supposed to provide more even clamping force, but since they evidently have to be re-torqued that means the rocker covers have to be done twice. No one wants to do that. Looks like I'm damned either way.

Justin, I did 20, 40, 66. Have you had any threads pull doing 20, 60, 80?

PT do you mean blown as in supercharged, or blown as in kapow?
 
jafir

jafir

Well-known member
May 4, 2011
1,628
0
Northwest Arkansas
Assuming that the torque-to-yield head bolts are of good quality, the angle method of tightening gives a more consistent clamping force than tightening the bolts to a certain torque. The torque method tells how much force you put into installing the bolts, but not how much force is actually clamping the head to the block. A lot could have been lost in friction.

http://www.qualitymag.com/articles/84854-quality-test-inspection-tight-not-always-right
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom