Driveshaft/U-Joint?

I HATE PONIES · Feb 14, 2009

I need some opinions. I had some bad vibes in the front shaft. I checked it on Sunday before a big trip on Monday. Everything was nice and tight with no play. On the way home Monday I was getting some flutter like vibration that continued to get worse. When I got home I pulled the shaft and found a cracked cap and dry U-Joints on the transfer case end. I got damn lucky that I caught it before it smashed the transmission.

I ordered 4 U-Joints fron Autozone. The Bastids gave me 3 of the PDQ1-0005 Made In America greasable joints and 1 Duralast made in china joint. I put two of the good joints in the front shaft on the transfer side. I ruined the other one when some bearings fell over.

Finally heres the question. Should I put the cheap joint in the remaining spot on the front shaft and plan to replace it? Are the china joints O.K. and how long will they last. It is a greasable joint.

I would just return it but I would have to order it again and we have some snow on the way so I might need 4wd.

ptschram · Feb 14, 2009

Out it in so you have something in there, but buy a new American made one for when it fails.

I've had really poor luck with the import u-joints.

I HATE PONIES · Feb 14, 2009

ptschram said:
Out it in so you have something in there, but buy a new American made one for when it fails.

I've had really poor luck with the import u-joints.

I am trying to decide whether I tempt fate with the factory joint or with the China joint. I will order 2 more of the good joints but I don't want to do the work twice. Also when the front joint fails does it stop the world like the transfer case joints? Do the front joints fail or are they just replaced when the other two blow up.

mastercamper · Feb 14, 2009

I think I have one of the duralast ones had it for about a year no problems, its a litte smaller, not as heavy, as the others. I just keep it greased.

rovercanus · Feb 14, 2009

Yup, Auto Zone's gone Chinese. Next time order from Advance Auto. Same part number. Tell them you want the Neapco ones. $12.99

sven · Feb 15, 2009

My local 'zone can only get PDQ made in chaina joints.

ptschram · Feb 15, 2009

If you have a lifted truck, you had better get used to swapping universal joints as they wear much faster. The practice will do you good.

Te danger of the existing joint failing is greater than the danger of a new failing immediately. The new one may fail prematurely, but it doesn't have a bazillion miles of wear on it like the one that's in there now has.

PT

I HATE PONIES · Feb 15, 2009

Maybe they only had 3 left and that is why they stuck me with the chinese imposter.

I ended up reinstalling the shaft with the factory joint in place. I decided it was best to leave it alone rather than risk destroying the new joint on installation. I can also return it now and get a good joint. I need to get 1 for the back shaft anyway so I think it will be fine for a few days. It does suck to have to pull the shaft again but I would have had to pull it either way.

I also could not order the center ball kit. I greased it up good but there is a small crack in the boot so I'll need to pick 1 up soon.

I HATE PONIES · Feb 15, 2009

ptschram said:
If you have a lifted truck, you had better get used to swapping universal joints as they wear much faster. The practice will do you good.

Te danger of the existing joint failing is greater than the danger of a new failing immediately. The new one may fail prematurely, but it doesn't have a bazillion miles of wear on it like the one that's in there now has.

PT

On the DII that front joint is greasable and it was in far better shape than the worn ones. I think it can make a few days until a new joint is located. I didn't try to remove it so it should be O.K. If it is factory it has about 90,000 miles on it. Time to replace for sure.

d1driver · Feb 15, 2009

For the price, you may consider buying an extra joint just to have one as a spare. I have run the Neapco's for a few years now without any problems. Grease em up every time I change oil, and all is well.

I HATE PONIES · Feb 15, 2009

d1driver said:
For the price, you may consider buying an extra joint just to have one as a spare. I have run the Neapco's for a few years now without any problems. Grease em up every time I change oil, and all is well.

That's the new plan. The old plan was to keep the old U-Joints for spares but they were all destroyed during removal. The caps and bearings aren't the same either so they now have no use.

2KD2 · Feb 15, 2009

Minor hijack question, if I too do the conversion as described, do I need the front shaft rebalanced ? Do I need to do this anytime I mod ujoints or swap out a rotoflex ?

I HATE PONIES · Feb 15, 2009

2KD2 said:
Minor hijack question, if I too do the conversion as described, do I need the front shaft rebalanced ? Do I need to do this anytime I mod ujoints or swap out a rotoflex ?

It is not a conversion. It is a replacement of worn parts. Mark the position of the shafts and flanges and reasemble the same way and you won't have to rebalance.

The only time to rebalance is if the balance tabs rot or fall off.

I HATE PONIES · Feb 21, 2009

I finally got the new U-joints from Advance. Autozone no longer carries the pdq. They told me that once the old stock pdq is gone it's gone for good. They have been repalced by the chinese Duralast.

The bad news is that I can't find a center bearing kit. Mine went out on the way to Advance so I got to lay on the ground and play with the hot cats to remove the shaft.:banghead:

gabriel · Feb 21, 2009

napa or oreilly, the cv kit is precision 617. i just picked one up at oreillys for 40 bucks.

I HATE PONIES · Feb 22, 2009

So the center bearing used to be one piece. It is now in a bunch of pieces. I have seen people remove the race with an inside gear puller when the ball and race are still together. How the hell do you get the race out once the ball is removed. I don't have a puller so some tips to get it out with brute force will be considered.

nynole · Feb 22, 2009

I HATE PONIES said:
So the center bearing used to be one piece. It is now in a bunch of pieces. I have seen people remove the race with an inside gear puller when the ball and race are still together. How the hell do you get the race out once the ball is removed. I don't have a puller so some tips to get it out with brute force will be considered.

I used a cheap Harbour Frieght slide hammer which worked great, but I have heard that autozone will loan a slide hammer with a refundable deposit

RoverInTheRockies · Feb 22, 2009

Mine was all marred up so I just took a chisel to it and finished the job... BTW WTF is up with the Moose???

I HATE PONIES · Feb 22, 2009

RoverInTheRockies said:
Mine was all marred up so I just took a chisel to it and finished the job... BTW WTF is up with the Moose???

Did you just cut it out?

What moose?

ut:

I HATE PONIES · Feb 22, 2009

nynole said:
I used a cheap Harbour Frieght slide hammer which worked great, but I have heard that autozone will loan a slide hammer with a refundable deposit

Was the ball still in place? What kind of end did you use?

I can make a slide hammer if I know what to put on the end of it.

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