I have access to some of this DOM tube very cheeeep. Again it's 1.5 OD, 7/8 ID I think if my math is OK, 5/16 wall.
Good to replace my D2 stock crap with?
Thanks!
Doug
Good to replace my D2 stock crap with?
Thanks!
Doug
So would 1.5 OD 5/16 wall thickness DOM tube be good for steering?
- Thread starter Roving Beetle
- Start date
I did some pricing a few weeks ago and it was going to be cheaper to buy something from rover tracks or RTE then to buy the stuff and build it my self unless you just have the stuff sitting around! But I think that 1.5OD 7/8ID will be ok but I'm no expert!
Looks like the stuff I can get (local friend) would cost me about $70 and I'd have enough to build a full set for me and one other truck. 
My problem was that shipping and buying the weld on ends and jam nuts ect pushed the price way up there!
the OD and thickness is fine. Now its just a matter of getting the threaded inserts with the right thread and the right OD for your tubing.
Most standard threaded inserts are for .120-wall tubing.
With 7/8 ID, you may have to drill or tap the ends yourself.
With 7/8 ID, you may have to drill or tap the ends yourself.
Maybe i should just get the right size.
I know he has some other stuff - this was the first i came across in the pile.
Also is there any special type of steel it should be? I think his stuff is "standard" what ever that means - i know it's not chromoly or anything fancy.
EDIT: "A513 type 5" ??
Also he said he has some that is 1.5 outer, .75 inner so i can just tap it for the Chebby ends directly - gave me a link to where he got it from, that's where I got the A513 number above. Said that stuff was a bit more expensive - maybe $100 to do all of my truck. (Plus the ends of course)
Thoughts??
I know he has some other stuff - this was the first i came across in the pile.
Also is there any special type of steel it should be? I think his stuff is "standard" what ever that means - i know it's not chromoly or anything fancy.
EDIT: "A513 type 5" ??
Also he said he has some that is 1.5 outer, .75 inner so i can just tap it for the Chebby ends directly - gave me a link to where he got it from, that's where I got the A513 number above. Said that stuff was a bit more expensive - maybe $100 to do all of my truck. (Plus the ends of course)
Thoughts??
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Never mind on the A513 - got it.
This is a cool explanation of a bunch of metal stuff.... maybe a repost on here, but anyway:
http://www.rockymountainextreme.com/showthread.php?p=345255
There is a cool little animation someone posted a little further down the page too showing how rolled tube and the DOM is made, neat.
EDIT: and here's a place to buy all kinds of stuff..... came up in a search for the "A513" steel. I have actually ordered some aluminum plate from these guys before - didn't know they did anything in plain steel. Cool. Price isn't too bad either from what it looks like.
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?step=2&id=283
This is a cool explanation of a bunch of metal stuff.... maybe a repost on here, but anyway:
http://www.rockymountainextreme.com/showthread.php?p=345255
There is a cool little animation someone posted a little further down the page too showing how rolled tube and the DOM is made, neat.
EDIT: and here's a place to buy all kinds of stuff..... came up in a search for the "A513" steel. I have actually ordered some aluminum plate from these guys before - didn't know they did anything in plain steel. Cool. Price isn't too bad either from what it looks like.
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?step=2&id=283
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Doug - it must be SoCal's proliferation of off-road activities; my closest hardware store stocks DOM tubing and tapped ends for heim joints. I've started like you, getting a piece of very stout tubing; eventually, it turned out to be cheaper to get the common stock, ends, and heims from Off-Road Warehouse.
Well, thanks Peter!
I figured with the wall size such that I can just tap it for the 7/8" thread it saves a step, saves welding (read: a place for trouble in theory - maybe?) and Chebby ends are so easy to get and cheap.
Plus there is NObody around here I know of that sells DOM ready to go! LOL. Maine is the home of the cheap-ass backwoods build-ups - not that that is a bad thing always.
I figured with the wall size such that I can just tap it for the 7/8" thread it saves a step, saves welding (read: a place for trouble in theory - maybe?) and Chebby ends are so easy to get and cheap.
Plus there is NObody around here I know of that sells DOM ready to go! LOL. Maine is the home of the cheap-ass backwoods build-ups - not that that is a bad thing always.
once you get this upgrade done it will make you feel all warm inside.
Also, If you go with DAP's grazeable TRE's and you make your bar a little on the long end, I have found that those TRE's tend to be a little longer then most and therefore had to lop off about an inch from the ends to make them fit in the entire way on lucky8llc's bar's. But then again you could also get different TRE's or tap your bars a little deeper.
All in all very happy with the result!
Also, If you go with DAP's grazeable TRE's and you make your bar a little on the long end, I have found that those TRE's tend to be a little longer then most and therefore had to lop off about an inch from the ends to make them fit in the entire way on lucky8llc's bar's. But then again you could also get different TRE's or tap your bars a little deeper.
All in all very happy with the result!
I don't plan to use the stock D1 or D2 ends as i really need something heavier given the heavy diesel up front and all. Plus, I am not a big DAP fan.
Unless someone knows of a HD replacement joint that fits the LR taper? I doubt it, maybe I'll go raid the shelf at my local small parts store and measure things from all sorts of trucks - I imagine I will have to ream them all out for the Chebby TRE's. No biggie.
Unless someone knows of a HD replacement joint that fits the LR taper? I doubt it, maybe I'll go raid the shelf at my local small parts store and measure things from all sorts of trucks - I imagine I will have to ream them all out for the Chebby TRE's. No biggie.
just get some 1.5 .250 wall dom, a couple of tube inserts, some 1 ton tre, I think the number are 2223r and 2027l, a tapper bit...some guy's like to thread the tube, but a welded in insert just a strong...
here's a website: www.ballisticfabrication.com
quick edit: just for inserts, get the tre's at napa or autozone, cheaper
here's a website: www.ballisticfabrication.com
quick edit: just for inserts, get the tre's at napa or autozone, cheaper
Nothing bolt on for a rover knuckle will be anywhere near as stout as a Chevy 1 ton TRE. It will also probably cost three times as much.
That's a sweet site! Mongo, did you have to do any reaming to make the 1 ton TREs fit?Mongo said:
I may just have to fab my own....