Overheating issues-sticky?

It's that time of year and past time for a comprehensive discussion on the topic!

If your truck is overheating, please, figure it out and fix it, or you'll be forcing me to write a dissertation on replacing head gaskets!

First step when overheating, allow the truck to cool and ensure that you have a full cooling system. The second step is if your fears are due to the gauge on the instrument panel, beg, borrow or steal a non-contact thermometer and confirm the truck is really overheating. Temps should not exceed 220'F. Of course, if you have coolant boiling out of the cap, we do have presumptive proof the truck is getting too hot.

Next, check the viscous clutch on the fan. When the truck is cool, it should have slight resistance to turning. When the truck is warm or hot, there should be significant resistance to turning. The least expensive replacement is one for a'98 GM 4.3l Vortec engine. You will have to slightly enlarge the mounting bolt holes, but it's a small price to pay for the savings.

Secondly, Thermostat. Far less likely a culprit, but sometimes they do fail. A replacement for a small block Chevrolet works fine if you bore an 1/8" hole in the mounting flange for a vent.

Lastly, the radiator. I list it last, in spite of it most likely being the culprit. These radiators are cross flow and build up crud at a high rate. Replacement radiators are expensive, as a result, the first step should probably be to pull it out and haul it to a radiator shop for flow testing and chemical cleaning. If this doesn't do the trick, you may be able to have the radiator rodded where the tanks are removed and cleaning rods passed down the cooling channels. If the core is beyond repair, it may be less expensive to have a new core installed. Worst case, replacement is indicated. Will Tillery should be able to help you out.

Once you get the radiator working, most likely your hoses need to be replaced-do it! Also, regardless of the quality of water and coolant, it is critical to dump and refill your cooling system at least every two years.

The aux fans should =be tested to ensure they turn freely, and work when power is applied. The easiest way to apply power is to turn the A/C on and the fans should come on. If not, find out why.

Good luck!

PT
 
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MUSKYMAN

Well-known member
Apr 19, 2004
8,277
0
OverBarrington IL
checking the thermostat is a easy thing to do.

remove the thermostat from a COOL engine.

place it in a pot of cold water with a candy thermometer that can be purchased at most grocery stores.

turn on the burner.

when the water is cold the unit should be all the way closed.

as the temp goes up the unit will slowly open.

watch the thermometer the unit should be fully open at the specified temp.

if the unit is a 180* unit it should then be fully open at that temp.

knowing the thermostat is working correctly allows you to eliminate it and move to other components.
 

MUSKYMAN

Well-known member
Apr 19, 2004
8,277
0
OverBarrington IL
Changing your fluid

Beacause Land rover engines have many disimilar metals in them they tend to fill the cooiling systems with more crud then other trucks.

I have found that thye amount of crud that comes out of them when flushed is amazing.

when I flush the trucks cooling system

I drain the system of all coolant.

refill the system with standard tap water

add 3 containers of prestone aluminum safe cooling system flush

run the truck at idle for about 1/2 hour

and then let the truck COOL .

then I drain the system again.

I then attach a garden hose flush system to a upper heater line start the engine with a lower radiator hose disconnected and let the crud be pumped out for a few min.

then I fully drain the system again and refill the system with a 50/50 blend of anti-freeze and distilled water.

I use ramps or a steep hill to purge air from the system by letting the truck idle with the heater on full hot and squeeze the upper hoses to let the bubbles come out the radiator in my D1 and the expansion tank on my DII.

you can also remove the snap out tank on the DII to aid in getting the air out of the DII.

make sure to use the correct fluid for each engine. consult your owners manual or shop manual for that fluid

flushing the system regualrly will allow the radiator to last much longer because it will remove some of the scale that will always accumulate .

good luck and stay cool!!
 

MUSKYMAN

Well-known member
Apr 19, 2004
8,277
0
OverBarrington IL
Trucks used in wet or mudding condition tend to accumulate debris between the AC condensor and the radiator. This debris will then inhibit airflow across both units and decrease thier ability to cool .

On a D1 this is a easy fix.

remove the fan by knocking the large nut on the fan clutch loose in a counter clockwise direction.

then on either side of the radiator you will see retainer plates that bolt to the front bulkhead. remove these and the radiator will rock twards the engine a couple inches.

this will allow enough space to clean and clear the debris. you may want to pour warm water on it to soften any mud there, then you can use a shop vac to vacume the debris up and out of the fins.

I would discourage the use of a high pressure power washer here due to the bent fins and potential damge it can cause.

make sure not to flex the radiator to far in the direction of the motor as the cooling lines may be damaged.

If you do find large amounts of debris from years of accumulation you may want to disconnect the cooling lines and radiator hoses and pull the radiator all togather and do a complete cleaning.

do not disconnect or remove the connections to the AC condensor or system discharge will result and you will need to have the system cleaned out and recharged to allow it to work correctly again.
 
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jhk07

Well-known member
Jul 26, 2006
619
0
Seymour Indiana
Non contact thermometer??? Meaning Infra-red???
Question??? can a person carefully take the temp of the coolant itself in the resevoir???? Would that be accurate enough?
 
jhk07 said:
Non contact thermometer??? Meaning Infra-red???
Question??? can a person carefully take the temp of the coolant itself in the resevoir???? Would that be accurate enough?

Yes, no. Opening the radiator and releasing the pressure changes the temp/pressure relationships and will cause the temp to change, not to mention it's risky. The non-contact thermometer allows for measuring the temps with ease and safety.
 
Oct 27, 2004
3,000
4
Actually, who cares what the coolant temp is, the engine temp is what hurts the engine. I take my temp sample form the valve cover, or the intake.

The coolant *can* be a different temp then the engine proper.

Also, when replacing coolant, you just cannot go wrong using Premix, or distilled water. The stuff in tap water, depending where you live, can and will react with Aluminum and other metals in yoru engine, accelerating corrsion.


Test the thermostat. You can, but why bother, they are cheap and if you take it out, you have to put either the old one, or a new one in. When I say cheap, the Top shelf one at the zone that works great was $7. Its THAT cheap!
 

MUSKYMAN

Well-known member
Apr 19, 2004
8,277
0
OverBarrington IL
to further pauls post , you can shoot the thermostat housing itself to get a good idea of the running temp and as the thermostat opens and closes you will see a real time change in temp.
 

MUSKYMAN

Well-known member
Apr 19, 2004
8,277
0
OverBarrington IL
Chris-St Louis said:
Test the thermostat. You can, but why bother, they are cheap and if you take it out, you have to put either the old one, or a new one in. When I say cheap, the Top shelf one at the zone that works great was $7. Its THAT cheap!

I can tell you why to test it:D

to know if it was contributing to the systems issues.

I also test new ones before I install them because it takes 5 min an lets me know I have a good one.

Chris think overheating sticky and add some stuff here...I know you have alot to contribute.
 

antichrist

Well-known member
Sep 7, 2004
8,208
0
68
Atlanta, GA
People might be looking for part numbers as well.

Viscous clutch
Imperial
Standard Duty 215157
Heavy Duty 215158
(both require enlarging the stock fan mounting holes)

Metal Fan (won't really aid in cooling, but is a related part)
Imperial 220618
(Can only be used with above clutches on D1 and requires trimming the blades about 1/8-1/4")

Thermostat Gasket
Fel-Pro 12994

Didn't list the Thermostat PN because most parts places list them.

If you go with a recore I highly recommend having them install a draincock, it makes those coolant drains much less messy. Bottom left is a good location, just mark the tank before removing your radiator so they know where to put it.
 
Oct 27, 2004
3,000
4
Cavitation is not discussed like it should. I've dealt with "Cavitation Erosion" on diesel cylinder walls, mostly on linered engines, but the 7.3 IDI had the same problem. The description I got from several diesel manufacturers was that, as the liner vibrates, on the outward movement of the cylinder wall, a high pressure area develops in the coolant adjacent to the cylinder wall. As the cylinder moves inward, a low pressure area forms and the coolant forms bubbles. As these bubbles "implode" ( collapse violently on themselves ), they actually eat away the cylinder walls. Over time, this eats holes through the cylinder liners/walls. The problem almost always occurs on
the thrust side of the cylinder wall because the downward/outward motion of the piston adds to the severity of the vibration in that location. DCA (Diesel Cooling Additive)elinates this problem by coating the cylinder walls and preventing the bubbles from forming.

http://www.oilburners.net/articles/cavitationartic.html



I heard of other instances of cavitation that had nothing to do with diesel engines. Several years ago, a technician in one of my classes, mentioned that he was seeing many water pumps on CHP Mustangs, having the water pump impeller disintegrate. The pump vanes were just disappearing. He theorized that possibly, with the high speed and high rpm operation, the impellers were causing a cavitation situation inside the pumps. With this in mind, he started adding a small amount of DCA to the Mustang cooling systems and claimed he extended the pump life by 3 to 4 times ( from 15K - 20K miles to 50K - 60K miles ). This made sense to me. I had heard of racing boats have prop damage from cavitating at high rpms. Just food for thought.


I cannot think of a bad thing that woudl happen from adding DCA to a Rover Cooling system.

http://www.fleetguard.com/pdfs/product_lit/emea_brochures/LI33020-GB.pdf

The additive is called DCA4 or FW15, depending on who you talk to.Fleetguard is the original manufacturer of the additive and is the recommended brand. You can also pick some up at your Ford dealer. Other brands may be available, but no one has told me for sure.
 

inhUMaine

Member
Aug 5, 2009
15
0
Old Town, Maine
antichrist said:
Metal Fan (won't really aid in cooling, but is a related part)
Imperial 220618
(Can only be used with above clutches on D1 and requires trimming the blades about 1/8-1/4")

220618 18 inch std rotation

So the metal center part of my plastic fan ripped apart today. Luckily it did no damage to anything else. I was doing some searching and I've seen this number above come up a couple times as a replacement fan if you install the GM fan clutch. The problem I'm noticing is that the fan is listed as standard rotation. For some reason I though our engine needed a reverse rotation fan, which is odd because there are multiple posts where people have said they have used this fan. Through my searching of this site I've also found these links to reverse rotation metal fans.

220638 18in rev rotation

17917 Jegs 17in no trim rev rotation

[url="http://www.jegs.com/i/Flex-a-lite/400/5917/10002/-1?parentProductId=753295#moreDetails]5917[/url] another Jegs 17 rev

and then there is the land rover fan for $55 w/o shipping at atlantic british or motorcars.

so which rotation is correct and are there actually people out there running fans backwards
 
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adriatic04

Well-known member
Mar 22, 2007
2,506
2
cleveland, oh
so where is best spot to hit an infrared thermometer for temp reading?

getting too low (heads) will cause a misreading due to exhaust heat. I always feel like valve covers portray a much lower temp, but I know nothing.

Shooting the expansion bottle seems decent but that is also hot coolant, same with the coolant hoses.
 

jymmiejamz

Well-known member
Dec 5, 2004
6,010
362
36
Los Angeles, Ca
Head gaskets should just be a part of the 60k mile service on bosche trucks.

Why go through the trouble of testing the thermostat? They cost less than $20...