Air locker Q's

DiscoveryXD · Dec 15, 2007

I've decided that i'm going to install my new GBR gears, axles, and lockers myself.

Installing the new 3rd member is basically, unbolt the old diff, clean the mating surface, apply RTV, bolt up/torque on the new diff assembly, and install the new shafts. Plane and simple, right?

here's what concerns me. Where to put the mini compressor (i've heard behind the headlights is a good spot)? What's the best rout to run the air lines?

Any pics would be greatly appreciated, and if there's any advice you guys want to give me, i'm all ears. I'm gonna start reading up on the compressor the next few days when i have time (still taking finals and finishing a 10pg project:ack: )

I've done all the work on my truck so far, so i figured why pay some J**p shop lot's of money to work on my Rover wondering if they even know what they're doing. I'm sure I could find a shop that would do a good job, but will they have a manuel to torque things down properly? stuff like that concerns me... and the fact that I had a shop here build me a custom bumper that turned out to be a nightmare, so that wasn't a good experience.

D Chapman · Dec 15, 2007

DiscoDino · Dec 15, 2007

I always had my compressor inside the cab...suprises you when it comes on, but keeps it clean...

Airlines...follow the brak lines and make sure they are all tight on so they don't play around

BuyRovers · Dec 15, 2007

Or you could dump the compressor and go full co2. Much simpler and less stuff to malfunction. Just my 2 cents...

C-

D Chapman · Dec 15, 2007

Until you run out of 02

jhmover · Dec 15, 2007

I put mine under the passenger seat, switches in the overhead console. Easy to run a line out of the floor and back to the locker(s).

DiscoDino · Dec 15, 2007

D Chapman said:
Until you run out of 02

true

BuyRovers · Dec 16, 2007

D Chapman said:
Until you run out of 02

I am not sure how many times you could actuate the lockers on one 10lb. tank, but I have used mine for MAR, Uwharrie Safari, U.R.E, and three other random weekend trips as well as a few local trails and filled one of my tires up when I had a hole and I still have a couple pounds left. The downside is if you had to do a trail side repair and use air tools you will likely spend the rest of your weekend with open diffs.

C-

Steve Rupp · Dec 16, 2007

I like my compressor inside. The compressor in my setup is pretty much a backup to my co2. I have the sliders setup to run as air tanks that I fill up with my co2 before i hit the trail. I can get 60 hits of the locker without dropping below 80 psi. here's some pics.

http://steverupp.phanfare.com/album/44244

MUSKYMAN · Dec 16, 2007

the only down side of the compressor and air selonoids inside is at some point oil will migrate up the lines and out the air release at the selonoid and that oil will make a mess.

I have redrilled my axle breathers to a much much bigger diameter and now I no longer have the oil migration problem.

If you want your lockers to work instantaniously...redo your breathers it makes the lockers a on off switch...like they should be.

DiscoveryXD · Dec 16, 2007

MUSKYMAN said:
the only down side of the compressor and air selonoids inside is at some point oil will migrate up the lines and out the air release at the selonoid and that oil will make a mess.

I have redrilled my axle breathers to a much much bigger diameter and now I no longer have the oil migration problem.

If you want your lockers to work instantaniously...redo your breathers it makes the lockers a on off switch...like they should be.

what exactly did you do to the breather tubes thom?

MUSKYMAN · Dec 16, 2007

I re-drilled the housings and tapped the to 3/8" NPT thread and installed some small elbows then ran stainless breather lines to them giving them 3x the diameter to breath through.

I'll snap a pic on my cell phone a upload it.

DiscoveryXD · Dec 16, 2007

MUSKYMAN said:
I re-drilled the housings and tapped the to 3/8" NPT thread and installed some small elbows then ran stainless breather lines to them giving them 3x the diameter to breath through.

I'll snap a pic on my cell phone a upload it.

ok, I wonder how hard that would be... I've never used a tap before.

now i really can't decide where to put the compressor! I like Dan's spot cause i think i wouldn't want the compressor behind the headlight considering I went through a river last year and that would put the compressor really close to the water level (when i entered the river the front of the truck went down) I'm gonna buy a powertank in the near future to, so i need to keep that in mind. I'm sure it wouldn't be hard to route air lines from the washer bottle area back...

DiscoveryXD · Dec 16, 2007

well, after reading a lot on here I'm wondering if this is something that i should even try. Switching out the mechanical stuff shouldn't be a problem, but the compressor and wiring has me worried.

After reading this thread, i'm wonbdering if i should even bother with the ARB wiring harness and switches? Post #10 and on has me worried that i'm installing a more expensive, less reliable setup. Should i just sell the ARB stuff and run non-electric switches? these from GCR... http://www.gulfcoastrovers.com/pages/products.asp?uid=9

here's the thread... http://discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=35303&highlight=ARB+air+compressor

and another question. If i install the gears and axles, can i drive the truck WITHOUT installing the compressor? I know the diffs will be open since there isn't any air to lock them, but i just want to make sure it ok as long as i cover the air conection on the diff housing. Maybe i can install the drivetrain stuff and take it to a shop so they can install/run the compressor?

BuyRovers · Dec 16, 2007

You will be fine just cover the fitting on the diff like you mentioned. The GCR switches are exactly what I used and plumbed them to my c02. My theory is the less electrical components the better, but then again I did sell my d1 to buy a d2...:banghead:

C-

D Chapman · Dec 16, 2007

I think you should buy the kit in the For Sale secton to install a York pump. The York pump is just badass. Not only could you run the lockers, but you will kill the need for a power tank, too. The York will allow you to run air tools, even a die grinder when you have a reserve tank.

Of course, you're looking at a bigger investment to begin with.
Mounting kit 250
Your compressor 125.00 from Advance Auto
York Clutch 80.00
Reserve tank 50.00
plumbing 50.00
regulator for the lockers 30.00
Air switches

So, you're looking at a 500.00 piece of kit once everything is up and going. But how much is a power tank AND air pump plus wiring.....

I would still plumb your system where you could plug an airtank into your system if anything fails, just to have a back-up plan.

Another thing to do would be the axle vent tubes. Not only makeing them bigger, but have the lines long enough to plug into something like your air box or a dedicated air manifold. Moisture KILLS the ARB's. The "O" rings get wet and not seal when you need the lockers. Only thing to do then id to tear the diff down and clean behind or even replace the "O" rings. Change your fluid OFTEN!! Or you will be hating life.

BuyRovers · Dec 16, 2007

Now that would be sweet!

Robert Page · Dec 16, 2007

Do the York, but visit a junk yard or truck parts place for the compressor. Older light trucks had brackets on them that can be adapted to work on almost any vehicle. Be sure you find one with a serpentine belt pulley! Should be around $80.00 for the bracket, clutch, and compressor. Get all of your plumbing at ACE or the likes. You can do this whole project a lot cheaper than buying "kits" since it appears you have some basic mechanical skills!!

Taps are easy to use. Use the correct drill size and get a good handle.

DiscoveryXD · Dec 16, 2007

That does look like a good option.

I don't think i would have a problem putting the york system together as long as I know all that i need. But i doubt i'll be able to do it if i have to figure out what I need without the help of someone with this kind of knowledge.

Here's another question. If i use the air switches from GCR, what else would i need to install them? Any of you guys that run them have some instructions on how to install them for a total iar system newb like me?

and are the ARB harness' all the same? in other words, could i just sell it to a local here in town?

D Chapman · Dec 17, 2007

Harnesses are the same

You just need airline to hook-up the air switches from GCR.

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