oil pressure
- Thread starter MontrealRR90
- Start date
D
Disco Mike
Guest
What oil weight.
Wow 15-20. Thats higher then Rover was telling us at the dealer.
They indicated with 5-30 between 5-10 psi at idle.
Wow 15-20. Thats higher then Rover was telling us at the dealer.
They indicated with 5-30 between 5-10 psi at idle.
well the mechanick at land rover dealer told me that my oil pump was probably finished because i had 5psi at idle ? i have a 97 RR engine in a 90 RR with the original 90 oil pump is that possible? thats what the guy that swaped the engine told me? anyway i put a lucas addiditive in and i have 18psi now WITH 5W50 synthetic oil. This all started because my engine started knocking but otherwise it runs fine. So what the hell is the correct psi ? 
K
Kyle
Guest
yes ! IT ONLY KNOCKS AT IDLE.WHEN YOU PRESS ON THE ACELERATOR IT SEEMS TO GO AWAY.MORE PSI I GUESS.WHEN I START IT IN THE MORNING IT DOES NOT KNOCK AND HAS SOON HAS IT WARMS UP IT STARTS KNOCKING.
MontrealRR90 said:
I have the same knock still. Only after warming up and driving again only @ idle (in all gears)..I do have a 4.0L so there could/would be some difference. Checked cats, oil pressure is fine, the only other thing left is maybe engine mounts which I plan to replace today. Any other thoughts?
Maybe block cylinder bore liners - if one is slipping it will happen after it is warm and sound like a knock. On the upswing the piston pushes the liner up until it hits the cylinder head. On the downswing it pulls it back down. As the revs increase the knock goes away due to piston speed.
Why Land Rover didn't add a top hat to the liner is a good question. Most designs employ this technique to lock the cylinder liners in place when the head is torqued down. I have seen some company offering new liners with top hats for the Land Rover engine. They probably require the block to be machined to accept the new design.
Why Land Rover didn't add a top hat to the liner is a good question. Most designs employ this technique to lock the cylinder liners in place when the head is torqued down. I have seen some company offering new liners with top hats for the Land Rover engine. They probably require the block to be machined to accept the new design.
TKS MARK HOW MUCH WOULD YOU THINK THAT WOULD COST? AND WHAT ABOUT THE OIL PRESSURE.wHAT THE HELL IS IT SUPPOSED TO BE AT?
From the mouth of Rover
Here is Rovers Oil pressure test... Cut and pasted.
Engine Oil Pressure Test
The following procedure applies to engines that have completed in excess of 1,000 miles and are filled with 15W/40 engine oil. The engine must be installed in the vehicle.
CAUTION : If the vehicle has been running the engine oil will be hot, care must be taken when fitting the equipment to prevent the possibility of personal injury due to scalding.
Special tools needed:
LST502-1 Adaptor pressure take off
18G502A, 0-300 psi Pressure gauge
18G502K Hose and adaptors
Place the vehicle on a suitable hoist.
Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
Remove the bolt from the oil pump housing and install adaptor LST502-1.
Fit pressure gauge 18G502A to hose 18G502K, fit the hose and gauge to adaptor LST502.1. Tighten all joints securely.
Connect the battery terminal and ensuring that the park brake is applied and that P or N is selected in the main gearbox start and run the engine. Run the engine until normal engine operating temperature is achieved (thermostat open).
With the engine speed maintained at 2400 rpm there should be a minimum engine oil pressure of 1.76 kg/cm2 (25 psi) .
Here is Rovers Oil pressure test... Cut and pasted.
Engine Oil Pressure Test
The following procedure applies to engines that have completed in excess of 1,000 miles and are filled with 15W/40 engine oil. The engine must be installed in the vehicle.
CAUTION : If the vehicle has been running the engine oil will be hot, care must be taken when fitting the equipment to prevent the possibility of personal injury due to scalding.
Special tools needed:
LST502-1 Adaptor pressure take off
18G502A, 0-300 psi Pressure gauge
18G502K Hose and adaptors
Place the vehicle on a suitable hoist.
Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
Remove the bolt from the oil pump housing and install adaptor LST502-1.
Fit pressure gauge 18G502A to hose 18G502K, fit the hose and gauge to adaptor LST502.1. Tighten all joints securely.
Connect the battery terminal and ensuring that the park brake is applied and that P or N is selected in the main gearbox start and run the engine. Run the engine until normal engine operating temperature is achieved (thermostat open).
With the engine speed maintained at 2400 rpm there should be a minimum engine oil pressure of 1.76 kg/cm2 (25 psi) .
The knocking you hear could possibly be from camshaft float, which is common in some of these engines. This will occur as the engine warms up. Mine knocks when engine warms up, then goes away as the rev's increase. Been doing it for over 50k miles. Regarding the oil pressure, the manual states that low oil pressure at idle is of no concern. Follow the procedure above for checking at 2400 rpm...
tks mine does the same thing goes away when rev the engine.get about 25psi when idling at start up and goes dowm to 18 psi whem hot thats since i put lucas treatment.before it would go dowm to 5 psi! should i change the oil pump? I guess oil pump would not change the knocking anyway but will be going on an expedition and will be doing 10,000 miles so i need to know if the engine will last? with what i hear i should. Do not have any tools to do the test but will bring it in to the dealer and at least get that done!
I second the camshaft knock. Had it for 40 K miles I suppose. Now at 134K. The timing chain stretches and allows the float to occur. Annoying, but I don't think it hurts anything.
To raise oil pressure you could try replacing the bearing shells for the rod and main bearings. On my engine, they were all more or less worn to copper at 103K miles. The rods are easy. The mains are more of a pain, although the bottom cap takes most of the wear, so you could get away with replacing the bottom shells.
I also use 15w-40 oil. These are low pressure/high volume oiling designs. They flow a lot of oil at a low rate, so the thicker stuff works well.
To raise oil pressure you could try replacing the bearing shells for the rod and main bearings. On my engine, they were all more or less worn to copper at 103K miles. The rods are easy. The mains are more of a pain, although the bottom cap takes most of the wear, so you could get away with replacing the bottom shells.
I also use 15w-40 oil. These are low pressure/high volume oiling designs. They flow a lot of oil at a low rate, so the thicker stuff works well.
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