Brakes

D

D Chapman

Guest
Any special tools needed to change front pads on the LR3? Or is it as easy as the other Rovers?
 

lforgue8

Well-known member
Jul 23, 2006
1,216
0
MA
D Chapman said:
Any special tools needed to change front pads on the LR3? Or is it as easy as the other Rovers?

If your doing front discs too you will need a 21 12 point socket to remove caliper bracket but other than that no big deal. the slide do need to be held with another wrench when removing the caliper bolts.

have fun!
 

lforgue8

Well-known member
Jul 23, 2006
1,216
0
MA
nwoods said:
You will also need replacement brake sensors. Those are usually swapped out at the time the pads are. It's not mandatory, more of a preventative measure.

X2 I FORGOT ABOUT THE SENSORS. ITS JUST EASIER TO REPLACE WITH NEW

MOST OLD ONES BREAK WHEN YOU TRY TO REMOVE THEM!
 

Juvat98

Member
Jan 1, 2006
7
0
Is there any trick to make the caliper pistons release? Getting the caliper off and new pads installed is no problem, but I can't get the caliper pistons to retract far enough to actually get the new pads over the rotor. Any help? Thanks.
 
0

'00RedRover

Guest
Re: Brakes PLUS rotors

I have a '00 Disco and I need a new rotor on the front right side. Can the rotors be turned or do they have some ridiculous tolerances like my BMW? the pads are still plenty good and I might want to keep them just turn the rotor. I know the grooved pads won't seat right on a smooth rotor BUT in a matter or days/weeks won't the pads wear to the smoothness of the rotor? Please help. New to this forum and Lovin' it. Thnx.
 

Juvat98

Member
Jan 1, 2006
7
0
I'm not certain about a D2, but my LR Dealer specifically told me not to turn the rotors on my LR3 due to tolerance issues--similar to BMW, Mercedes, Audi, etc... I replaced the pads only and have not had any problems. I'm sure the next brake change will involve rotors as well.

If you don't replace your pads when you turn / replace your rotor, you may notice decreased braking effectiveness due to reduced contact area between rotor and pad. This may also cause your rotors to score earlier than they otherwise would have, effectively wearing them sooner. I've been told you can lightly sand used pads with medium grit sand paper to help the pads seat on a new or machined rotor.

Hope that helps. Good luck.
 

paxton

Well-known member
Nov 13, 2006
1,246
2
Huntsville, AL
Related but not worthy of creating a new thread...

I was told today that I needed new pads and new front rotors on my '05 LR3. This sound reasonable for just 23500 miles? I thought the ~800 bucks they quoted was a bit high.

Anyone have an opinion they'd like to share?
 
D

D Chapman

Guest
800.00 is REALLY high. I think Tami replaced her pads only for like 80.00. Rotors can't be 700.00
 

nwoods

Well-known member
Apr 1, 2006
467
0
SoCal
www.nextstepdesigns.com
For dealer prices, that $800 is right in line with everything else I've heard. pads & sensors for all four corners is nearly $400, and you are adding rotors and labor. Your mileage is about typical for new pads, and unfortunately, a lot of people have reported needing rotors as well.
 

mwatters

Member
Oct 9, 2006
22
0
Lakes Area
I just did my 30k maint. and my brake pads were fine. They measured 5mm for rear and 6 for the front. The dealer said they change them around 3mm. I do a lot of off and on road driving. 23,500 seems a little early, but again I do use the sport shifter to slow down before stopping a lot to save my pads. I did download the manual and pad changing seems easy and saves a lot of money. Hope that helps.
 

JSQ

Well-known member
Apr 21, 2004
3,259
1
44
San Diego, CA
mwatters said:
but again I do use the sport shifter to slow down before stopping a lot to save my pads.

That's just brilliant.

You put extra stress and wear on your ENGINE and TRANSMISSION to save brake pads.

really clever.
 

GregH

Well-known member
Apr 24, 2004
1,630
0
JSQ said:
That's just brilliant.

You put extra stress and wear on your ENGINE and TRANSMISSION to save brake pads.

really clever.

X2

I've never understood the lunacy of those who think using engine braking to save your brakes is a great idea. Perhaps they've watched too many 18-wheeler movies.

BTW-I'm not talking about using engine braking to improve control when driving off-road and going down a steep, loose trail.
 

GregH

Well-known member
Apr 24, 2004
1,630
0
That's correct.

Do you drive an 18 wheeler? It's one thing if you're referring to slowing down a heavily-loaded rig coming down a long mountain pass where your brakes can get burning hot and become non-existent. Using that high compression diesel engine to safely control your speed makes perfectly good sense then.

However, if you routinely overheat your brakes and find yourself needing to use engine braking for safety in your Rover or any other normal car or truck, then you either you have a driving problem or need better pads.

If you're downshifting that manual trans to allow engine braking in order to save money on your brake pads you are a fool. Brake pads are way cheaper and easer to replace than drivetrain parts.
 

mwatters

Member
Oct 9, 2006
22
0
Lakes Area
DiscoveryXD said:
so basically you're putting unecessary stress on the expensive parts to prolong the life of the cheap parts.....



doesn't make much sense to me.

Ever think it could be a lease and trying to save cost out of pocket now for a car that is not mine :bigok: