Dash lights not working

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andy0826

Guest
I am pretty sure the contacts in my headlight switch are gone. When I turn on the parking lights, the dash lights come on, but go out when I turn the headlights on. Has anyone pried apart the turn signal lever to correct this problem? I am trying to avoid buying a new turn signal/lights lever. I have already checked the multiplug. Thanks.
 
S

Steve83

Guest
It's the multi-function switch (headlights, blinkers, etc.), and you can disassemble & repair it if you're careful, observant, & patient. But it's only ~$25 new.
 

Joey

Well-known member
Apr 19, 2004
976
0
Liberty Township, Ohio
Steve, where can you find it for $25 ?

Here is the instructions for disasably:

"forgot to add that I got this info from someone else about a year or so ago, I can't remember who posted it."

Tools required
Small Philips head screwdriver
Emery cloth (sand paper)

Procedure
1. On the underside of the plastic cowling which surrounds the steering column are three screws in recessed holes, undo these screws.
2. Firmly, but cautiously pull apart the top and bottom of the cowling, It snaps together, but do not force it.
3. Turn the steering wheel to the left so that the top of the center body of the wheel is aligned vertically rather than horizontally, which it would be if the driving wheels were straight ahead. It is easier if the engine is running when doing this so that the Power Assisted Steering is working.
4. Before continuing, turn OFF the ignition and remove the key for safety.
5. Access to two small screws used to secure the switch housing to the steering column assembly is now gained. See picture. Remove these two screws.
6. There are two connecter blocks on the back of the switch, disconnect these.
7. Firmly, but again cautiously, pull the switch from the column. It has probably not been removed since vehicle assembly so will undoubtedly be stiff. This took me a little time to work out, but the switch will ONLY come out if pulled straight out through the direction of the drivers door. There are two tracks on the top and two on the bottom of the switch holding its position so it must slide in and out along these tracks.
8. Once the switch is out, remove the two screws on the back and separate the covers from the switch body, there are two, one on top of the other, both held in by the two screws. Be careful when separating the switch as there are moving parts inside which will come out and need to go back in, in the same location.
9. Clean any residue or corrosion from the contacts within the switch using the emery cloth. A light sanding is all that should be necessary, try not to touch the contacts again with dirty fingers.
10. Reassemble the two covers on the back of the switch and plug in the two connecter blocks.
11. Turn on the ignition and try to turn on the lights, if all lights work as they should turn off lights and ignition then reassemble following these instructions backwards.
 

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EMBIBB

Well-known member
Sep 6, 2004
252
2
59
San Antonio,Texas
light issue

I had a similar experience and found the multi plug and below the blinker/light assembly was the culprit. Pulling this plug and cleaning the contacts was all I needed..

Eddie
 
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Electro Gremlin

Guest
This on a '95 D1:

Over a year ago my instrument illumination AND tail lights, as well as one rear fog lamp went out (as well as tripping the SRS warning light) at the same time. This problem seems to have coincided with me hooking up the lights on a trailer with a U-Haul trailer connection at which time the end of the trailer connection took a hit from the back door. Then several months later the instrument and tail lights came back on for no apparent reason. The SRS warning light was reset by my mechanic -- according to him it was tripped off by "low voltage."

Then just the other night, the instruments and tail lights went on the fritz again, accompanied by the odor of plastic melting. Seemed to be a short in the headlight multi switch as the lights would come back temporarilly if I jiggled the switch stalk.

I tried to replace the multi switch today and it easily busted out as I began to pull it off of the steering column. I noticed that two of the connectors were burnt and the plastic surrounding was melted. The larger of the two connectors from the wiring harness was similarly burnt at the connections for the brown/green wire and the red wire. Looks to me like the connector off the wiring harness may need to be replaced.

Anyway, not wanting to fry the new $200 multi switch, I'm wondering if the problem is a short in the old multi swich, the trailer connection or somewhere else in the wiring harness. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
 

Joey

Well-known member
Apr 19, 2004
976
0
Liberty Township, Ohio
More than likely the short in question was a loose connection in the plug. When in use would build up heat due to bad connection and causing your issues.

Of course this is just my opinion without seeing anything.
 

Joey

Well-known member
Apr 19, 2004
976
0
Liberty Township, Ohio
More than likely the short in question was a loose connection in the plug. When in use would build up heat due to bad connection and causing your issues.

Of course this is just my opinion without seeing anything.
 

Joey

Well-known member
Apr 19, 2004
976
0
Liberty Township, Ohio
More than likely the short in question was a loose connection in the plug. When in use would build up heat due to bad connection and causing your issues.

Of course this is just my opinion without seeing anything.