Crankshaft pulley removal on P38

skippy3k

Well-known member
Aug 15, 2005
1,483
0
Northern California
Within the next week or so, I will be removing the front cover in the hopes of solving my oil leak once and for all. In order to do so, I need to remove the crankshaft pulley. The instructions say to use special tool LRT-12-088 to remove the oil seal. Is it possible to remove and replace the oil seal without using this tool? I would hate to get that far only to find out I absolutely need it.

Thanks,
Scott
 

DiscoJen

Well-known member
Aug 27, 2004
3,652
0
54
The Lou!
I just did this last week before I moved so I can give ya a hand on this one. It's total cake.

Remove belt and fan of course.
Remove cam pulley (gives ya alot more clearance if ya do)
Remove big ass bolt on front of crank pulley (I was able to wedge a plumbers wrench between the frame and the pulley to keep it from spinning while I yanked like a bitch on that bolt until it loosened, it's not easy cause it's torqued at like 200#)
To get the pulley off, I used a small pry bar and just budged it a little bit at a time until it finally slipped off. I was afraid I was going to break something but don't be scared to give it a bit of muscle.
The rest is clear to get the front cover off. Be sure to put in a new crank seal while you are at it.

Tip: I lined up my pulley with the woodruff key and made alignment marks just to be on the safe side before I put the seal in and put it all back together. If you do this before the seal is in it's easier to feel and see proper alignment between these two critters. When I rebuilt the engine before, I must have just barely had the pulley alignment off when I reinstalled it. And torqueing like the devil allowed it to slide on without being aligned with the woodruff key and the groove in the pulley. So after a few weeks of driving, the pulley finally slipped, caught the key and cracked my pulley. Hence, my recent need for a new pulley and seal. :)

Shout if ya have any other questions, but I'm sure you won't have any problems.
 

skippy3k

Well-known member
Aug 15, 2005
1,483
0
Northern California
Oh good. That's the info I was hoping to hear. Do you happen to remember if the fan requires a 36mm or 32mm wrench? I've taken it off before, but I can't remember what I used. I think it's a 36mm. I just want to make sure I've got the right tools prior to starting the project, since the truck is my main mode of transport. (i.e, I can't jump in and drive to the tool store once I start dismantling it.)

Thanks,
Scott
 

DiscoJen

Well-known member
Aug 27, 2004
3,652
0
54
The Lou!
Hmmm, I believe it's 32mm, but I used a big crescent wrench instead. I've also just put the end of a long flat head screwdriver at the left edge of the nut and whacked it with a hammer to loosen it as well. I always have more trouble getting it back on than I do off.

15mm for the tensioner pulley bolt, and 24mm (15/16) for the crank bolt. 10mm for the cam pulley bolts. Then you'll need 10mm and 11mm for the front cover. You won't need much beer since it's a pretty quick job. But by all means, pretend that it will take longer and have a sixer just for kicks. ;)
 

DiscoJen

Well-known member
Aug 27, 2004
3,652
0
54
The Lou!
Oh yeah, be sure to check your pulley when you take it off before dismantling any further. That may be the culprit. It certainly was my problem. I was losing gads of oil and couldn't figure out where it came from. Assuming I had a bad front seal I replaced it. Luckily, I noticed that crack in the pulley sleeve when I was reinstalling it. Otherwise, I would have had my front cover off as well.

And the seal is real easy to reinstall without tools. I'll share a little tip I got from Chris...just set it in place and tap into place using a 10mm socket. Little taps all around until it sits nice and flush with the cover.

Mine is nice and dry ever since. :)
 

skippy3k

Well-known member
Aug 15, 2005
1,483
0
Northern California
DiscoJen said:
I was losing gads of oil and couldn't figure out where it came from.

That's pretty much my problem. I can watch it drip down the side of the oil filter. My cooler hoses are new and torqued properly. So I figure it's either the oil pressure sensor, the front cover, or maybe the front seal. I'm prepared to replace all three (and the water pump for good measure) while I'm in there.

DiscoJen said:
And the seal is real easy to reinstall without tools. I'll share a little tip I got from Chris...just set it in place and tap into place using a 10mm socket. Little taps all around until it sits nice and flush with the cover.

These kinds of tips are just what I was looking for. I got my beer, my tools, and my instructions. I'm ready!

Scott
 

SactoDisco

Well-known member
Jan 28, 2007
48
0
Nor Cal
Can't get the HB bolt to budge. I was pulling like a bastard from the top and bottom. :banghead: I don't have access to a impact wrench so anyone have any other ideas on how to get it off.
Jason
 
B

byronAU

Guest
skippy3k said:
I can watch it drip down the side of the oil filter. My cooler hoses are new and torqued properly. So I figure it's either the oil pressure sensor, the front cover, or maybe the front seal. I'm prepared to replace all three (and the water pump for good measure) while I'm in there.

Another likely suspect is the OIL PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE!.....it's just above the filter alongside the oil pressure sender unit.....when it leaks you're sure it's a leaky filter gasket or sender.....change/replace both and the mother*** still leaks the same!:mad:

.................been there.....done that!;)
 

skippy3k

Well-known member
Aug 15, 2005
1,483
0
Northern California
I guess I never updated this thread. Yes, it turned out to be the oil pressure relief valve.

Sacto - Maybe I'm slow this morning, but what is the "HB bolt"?
 

agbuckle98

Well-known member
Mar 10, 2006
1,831
1
skippy3k said:
I guess I never updated this thread. Yes, it turned out to be the oil pressure relief valve.

Sacto - Maybe I'm slow this morning, but what is the "HB bolt"?


I bet he's talking about Harmonic Balancer. Crank pulley. I always end up dropping the pan and putting a block of wood against the first counterweight and the block then get a nice long breaker bar and cheater and the come right off. Never ever had any luck holding that sucker in place any other way.
 

agbuckle98

Well-known member
Mar 10, 2006
1,831
1
Having the pan off makes it just that much easier to hold the crank from turning when you have to apply the 200 lb/ft torque when tightening the bolt again. It feels like I'm going to break the bolt head right off then the magic "click" from the torque wrench.