This will be updated over a couple of days so stick with me, figured someone should do it with EE's Link having died and all.....
These directions are applicable for most Discovery Series II's but your vehicle will be different in it's own little irritating ways. To tell if your truck is a candidate you need to either check your transfer case number (#'s starting with 41D or 42D will work, #'s starting with 61D, 62D, 69D or 70D will not) or check the top of your transfercase above the front output shaft for the CDL nipple, a picture of this "nipple" will be posted in a later segment. The general rule of thumb is "all" model year 1999 & 2000 DII's will have the nipple as will early year 2001's. Late 2001-> 2003's are SOL, you'll have to get more parts to complete the conversion. If you have a 2004, then you suck and you have no need to do this.
Step 1) Collection of Parts
A complete DI transfercase shift mechanism as is illustrated below. Common sources are junkyards and private parts people on DiscoWeb. The 4 bolts that will mount the shifter body to the transmission are also needed as the DII shifter is mounted to the bottom of the transmission cover plate and the DI shifter must be mounted to the transmission. The tapped holes are there in the right locations, but the bolts are MIA.
In addition you'll need: numerous mid sized rivets, a pop riveter, a drill/bits, usual cast of hand tools, and some grease.
The HI-LO shifter on a DII is operated off of a cable mechanism where as the DI used a solid link (#1), and (#2) actuates the CDL nipple. It is a good idea to try to turn your CDL nipple first to see if it needs a blast of PB Blaster or WD-40 to loosen up the mud/rust overnight.
All told the entire swap should take about a day's worth of fitting with all parts present and accounted for.
Once your parts are all accounted for it is a good idea to clean them all and inspect them for any torn or deteriorating pieces. Replacing any bad parts now will be much easier than when the parts are burried in your truck. Putting new grease in the friction areas of the mechanisms now will help avoid your mechanism "locking up" at some later date.
These directions are applicable for most Discovery Series II's but your vehicle will be different in it's own little irritating ways. To tell if your truck is a candidate you need to either check your transfer case number (#'s starting with 41D or 42D will work, #'s starting with 61D, 62D, 69D or 70D will not) or check the top of your transfercase above the front output shaft for the CDL nipple, a picture of this "nipple" will be posted in a later segment. The general rule of thumb is "all" model year 1999 & 2000 DII's will have the nipple as will early year 2001's. Late 2001-> 2003's are SOL, you'll have to get more parts to complete the conversion. If you have a 2004, then you suck and you have no need to do this.
Step 1) Collection of Parts
A complete DI transfercase shift mechanism as is illustrated below. Common sources are junkyards and private parts people on DiscoWeb. The 4 bolts that will mount the shifter body to the transmission are also needed as the DII shifter is mounted to the bottom of the transmission cover plate and the DI shifter must be mounted to the transmission. The tapped holes are there in the right locations, but the bolts are MIA.
In addition you'll need: numerous mid sized rivets, a pop riveter, a drill/bits, usual cast of hand tools, and some grease.
The HI-LO shifter on a DII is operated off of a cable mechanism where as the DI used a solid link (#1), and (#2) actuates the CDL nipple. It is a good idea to try to turn your CDL nipple first to see if it needs a blast of PB Blaster or WD-40 to loosen up the mud/rust overnight.
All told the entire swap should take about a day's worth of fitting with all parts present and accounted for.
Once your parts are all accounted for it is a good idea to clean them all and inspect them for any torn or deteriorating pieces. Replacing any bad parts now will be much easier than when the parts are burried in your truck. Putting new grease in the friction areas of the mechanisms now will help avoid your mechanism "locking up" at some later date.
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