Suspension

Roverlady · Sep 7, 2004

So, I've been thinking (daily) about lifting the Disco. I guess it's about time....
but I have a few questions.
1. I only want 2-3 inches at the most. Should I get medium or heavy duty springs? I have a friend selling some OME hds...but we might put those on the Rangie.

2. Old Man Emu or Rovertym? The RTE guys are near me, and I could chat with them at MAR....but it seems like everyone has OME.

Oh, I will not be getting a winch or heavy duty bumper for many years (if ever) so I know that makes a difference for spring rating.

Thanks in advance for the suggestions.

stansell · Sep 7, 2004

I have a 3" OME set up with the 762's (HD) in the rear. I found little difference on pavement as far as ride is concerned (though I have ACE which may make on road springs less important for cornering?) Off road, it has been a great set up.

I have no experience with RTE, so can't comment. FWIW, and good luck.

BTW, I have a 99 DII which had SLS til I converted it to springs, so my views may not reflect those that have always had coil springs.

Greg French · Sep 7, 2004

Both are great. Go with what is most convenient for you. The HD ride is a little more truck-like, but isn't that why you got a Rover in the first place?

cmondieyoung · Sep 7, 2004

I like my truck to drive like a truck as well, and so I like the OME HD. The road handling on my truck has improved, particularly around town on Boulder's oft-neglected streets.

Sergei · Sep 7, 2004

Susannah, your corner of the States populated with modified Discos

If you going to MAR just ask people to ride in their trucks to find which ones you like more. Also spring rating will be affected by how much stuff you gonna haul on daily basis and off-road. Thing is - if you got piles of gear when you wheeling, you definetly need pretty stiff springs, but then daily driving becomes pretty harsh (less load --> stiffer springs reaction).

If you will get 2-3" lift you may also consider getting rocksliders that can act as steps

Jaime · Sep 7, 2004

OME doesn't give you a full 2 inched of lift. I put a set of OME HD springs and shocks on my D1 and got 1" in front, and 1 3/4 in rear. I do have and ARB bumper and winch up front, which I'm sure is the cause of the difference.

I'm extremely happy with the lift. I did it knowing that I wasn't going to get 2 inches, and that was fine. The truck has 125k miles, but with the new suspension, the ride has improved tremendously. Not a stiff bone-jarring ride, but rather a firm controlled ride.

I have a friend with the 2 inch RTE springs on a D2, and he is quite happy with them.

I don't think you will go wrong with either OME or RTE.

F18Guy · Sep 7, 2004

Sus,

It's about time

From our previous discussions, you know what to do.

Roverlady · Sep 7, 2004

Well, I will probably wait until after MAR anyway...I know I know....go before the wheeling. But I'm thinking I might find some good deals at the auction, or just get to talking to people about what they prefer. We've gotten the bug bad...and ever since I got these bigger tires I've been hearing Paul in my ear (GO BIG). Ivan's putting Mud tires on the Rangie on Friday....it's all starting to avalanche!

At this point in time, I don't want the stiffest ride. I'm commuting in the Disco, so I need it to ride ok on the highway. However, I'm hearing more and more from people that the ride and steering response is actually improved with the lifts. My steering is pretty wobbly and wandering now with the new tires...so that could help.

Also, what about just adding spacers for now? Is that a bad idea or should they be paired with the full lift kit (shocks, springs, brake lines, etc)?

p m · Sep 7, 2004

The ride is okay with even OME 751/762 springs, if you keep the soft shocks. With Bilstein shocks, the ride will be noticeably stiffer (esp. in the mall parking lot) - but I felt the D1's handling definitely benefitted from OME HD springs and stiff shocks.

Gumarcel · Sep 7, 2004

I would vote for the RTE 2 inch lift w/ ome hd shocks. I have that set up and I actually got around 2.5 inches of total lift. The ride isn't too bad, but I really don't care. I really don't remember ridding in an all ome lift but I know that when I hit bumps you feel it, the car kinda bounces when you hit bumps, it is a stiff set up, and I like it. Or maybe mine is just all broken...haha

I don't actually think you would need extended lines with my set up. I have them, but really don't think I have ever had the rover fully extended yet. Just get the spring and shocks before spacers, only cost about 640 for shocks and springs and around 750 for shocks, springs, spring retainers, and brake lines.

antichrist · Sep 7, 2004

Roverlady said:
snip

Oh, I will not be getting a winch or heavy duty bumper for many years (if ever) so I know that makes a difference for spring rating.

I put on OME HD some years back. Didn't get 2". In the coming week I'm going to make a set of 2" spacers for the springs to get a bit more lift. Well...assuming I can get it done before MAR and all the other stuff I need/want to do.

You sure you don't want a winch? I have one I want to sell (I really don't need 4

)
Look for the white '95 Trail Marshall with black bonnet at the MAR.
Cheers.

Nomar · Sep 7, 2004

I think I talked with you and Ivan at the spring rally ( I have the silver RRC from Staunton). If you aren't in a hurry, talk with Steve or Drew at the MAR or take some rides in other's trucks and see what you like........

bri · Sep 7, 2004

Yeah, I think you do know what to do. Here is what I would recommend though. At present I do not have this exact setup, but have run the OME springs and like them better than the RTE 3" springs that I have now. When I need to I will replace the 3" RTE with OME and spacers.

Don't wait too long between stage one and stage two or do it all at once. Doing it all at once means you only have to take all the springs and shocks off once too.

Personally I would not go 3" lift until you can do the shock mounts to get drop back.

Stage 1 (likely about 1-1.5" lift).
--Springs: OME HD springs front and rear.
--Shocks: N73 shock in front, N44 Rear.
Stage 2 (1-3" lift)
--1"-1.5" spacers.
--Lowered upper rear shock mount.
--Extended brake lines.
--Cones or spring retainers.

You will then have a very capable rig, be careful with it until you get protection for your sils, diffs, front, rear, draglink and trackrod.

Brian

noee · Sep 7, 2004

Hey Sus, I heard you moved to Fisherville? I'm in Waynesboro at least once a week, if you wanna take a spin in my rig (D2, ACE, 3" RTE springs, Bilstein 7100s) to check out the ride on the hwy/'round town, shoot me a mail. Looks like I'll be over there next Tues if the weather is good.

bri · Sep 7, 2004

Not arguing here, just want to point out that one should not try to use a D2 with 3" setup as grounds for determining what to do with a D1. D1 handles lift much differently (likely not as well) as a D2. If you test drive a 3" setup pay attention to its road manners as well. Loss of camber can result in some wandering. I did not experience this with 1.5" but do with 3" and 235/85. Some of it is crappy tires (Trxus MT). Also increase lift affects the driveline and on D1 you may get more vibes. Some people do, some don't.

When I went 3" I also did offset radius arms (RTE), offset trailing links (Rockware), and GBR driveshafts.

Brian

PHARAOHDISCO · Sep 8, 2004

A standard OME lift will provide you with about 1.5" of lift and you will not need to perform other changes on your D1 except for the springs and shocks. If you want to go for a 3" OME suspension lift setup or even a 3" RTE suspension lift, you will need to make more changes to accomodate this lift.
These are the additional changes you will need to make when lifting your D1 3":
1. Double cardan driveshaft in the rear and a 4 bolt rear differential flange to eliminate vibrations.
2. Modified Front radius arms to correct castor angle.
3. Modified rear links to correct rear differential angle.
4. And if you are going for larger tires you will need to change the ring and pinion gears to a 4.1 gear ratio.

El_Cid_2000 · Sep 8, 2004

RTE 2" and OME

Roverlady,
I just installed the RTE HD 2" and OME on my 97' along with Kumho 245/75's and I love it. I can't specifically speak to the OME springs or other RTE springs for that matter but my truck does "feel" better i.e. better handling on off-ramps, corners etc. Negatives would include a stiffer ride (my OEM) shocks were completely wasted. Think of a Lincoln Town Car with the air ride system inoperable.

So far it?s been great and I?m very happy with it.

It sounds like you wanted about the same things out of a lift as I do so if you want to check the truck out at M.A.R. I?d be happy to take you out for a spin.

Roverlady · Sep 8, 2004

Thanks for all the responses!

I think I'm really looking for something moderate at this point...not really ready to go 3", and as bri pointed out, I really need to get some underbody protection first! I'll probably wait until MAR to talk to some folks. What about removing the sway bars as well? Is that something I can do before I get the suspension upgrade?

I've been really happy with my truck with the stock suspension, but think those extra inches could help a lot. I did the Log Bridge Trail at the Pond this weekend (MAR prep day) and was pretty impressed that I made it through stock. Although, after all this rain, I probably won't make it at the Rallye!

Jeff(Nomar) great to see you on here...we really should get some people together one weekend. We have a good friend with a lifted Rubicon who likes to head out to Shoe Creek every week or so; he's picking up a D1 this week and we know a few other Rover folks in the area...maybe after the rain subsides! Ivan actually wanted to talk with you about the RR-he's getting mud tires for it this Friday.

Noee, thanks for the offer. I guess it would make a difference that you have a D2-but anytime you are in the area, give us a call.

How about we get a group together at MAR of D-web people, and I can compare set-ups?!

bri · Sep 8, 2004

Some D1 handle lift better than others. I have been in D1 that have 3" that did not need the changes like Tarek mentioned. I'd just be prepared to do them if necessary. Whether they are necessary depends on your vehicle IMO.

I believe that if you really need caster angles changed, that the radius arms are not the right way to change it. You need to have your swivel balls re-drilled to correct the problem. The Radius arms make only a very slight change and they appeared to make no difference on my vehicle other then the difference due to the new bushings that I installed. They did not seem to effect wandering at all.

The reason I went with new trailing links was merely because I was eating rotoflex after the lift. This could be due to the pinon angle change, but driveline vibe in the rear was not an issue for me with 3". Vibe was an issue in the front, so I went GBR. However it has been an issue even with 1.5" lift and it did get better with GBR shaft. I would consider Tom Woods if I was doing it again.

The first protection that I would do would be diff guards front and rear and the RTE drag link and track rod. If you have a rotoflex, ditch that stupid thing.

Cheers,

Brian

Roverlady · Sep 8, 2004

Bri, here's another stupid question....what is rotoflex?!

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