P0705 Error code and reset

DannyDisco

Well-known member
Aug 9, 2005
910
0
Ok, as per other thread I've had problems with the tranny, I finally got an OBD-II code reader on it (actron CP9135) and it popped out a P0705 "Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction (PRNDL INPUT)" at me. I tried to reset with the reader and it won't stop the code, it just pops back up. Does anyone have any clue as to how to fix the problem with the sensor or even know if the prior mentioned reader should be able to reset it? Also, where is the sensor so I can check for damage, loose wires, etc?

PLEASE HELP!!!!

Dan Long
 

MUSKYMAN

Well-known member
Apr 19, 2004
8,277
0
OverBarrington IL
I havent had this one.

but my best guess would be the neutrel safty switch/shifter location switch has gone away and needs to be replaced.

untill its replaced it will keep coding

so replace the switch then reset
 

DannyDisco

Well-known member
Aug 9, 2005
910
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Is the neutral safety switch located on the driver's side of the transmission where the shifter rod comes in??? Also, is there any way to test the switch before replacing it???

Thanks,

Dan Long
 

DannyDisco

Well-known member
Aug 9, 2005
910
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Update for those of you who search/land here,

I tore apart the center console and reset the computer with an OBD II reader and it worked........until I was 90% through reassembling the console, when I started to double-check the window switches and I had the SES, "M", and "S" lights all come back. Disassembled the console and reset the codes, reassembled console carefully/slowly and cycled the key on/off several times to check self. Made it all the way through the reassembly with no idiot lights. Have checked back to the Disco several times in the last 4-5 hours and all seems good, around the block and all.

My assumptions:
1) During my initial CB install metal shavings/accidentally crossed wires caused the first warning light. Subsequent cleaning/clearing of codes stopped the lights.

2) Second attempt to install the CB using the ground/power wires to the cigarette lighter caused the second fault. Removal of splices and careful reassembly of console remedied whatever problem there.

3) I will not again screw with Rover electronics, until I wire my new Hellas off of the old fog light harness!

Dan Long
 

DannyDisco

Well-known member
Aug 9, 2005
910
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Started truck up in morning, same old shit. If no answers it goes to an independent non-Rover shop tomorrow.

Dan
 

DannyDisco

Well-known member
Aug 9, 2005
910
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Stupid shop, reset the computer, and then gave it back to me. Got about 1/2 mile before the lights came on, turned around, got my money back and here I am again, stuck. Any new ideas?!?!?!?!

Dan
 

DannyDisco

Well-known member
Aug 9, 2005
910
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Yeah, waiting for dry weather to pull it out, just wierd how it'd freak out the same time I try putting in a CB and then goes in and out. Thanks Chris

Dan
 

DannyDisco

Well-known member
Aug 9, 2005
910
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I can't find ANY cut wires or loose wires from when I cut into the console cubby. I tapped into the seat heater wires (heaters not in my 2000 DII) and put things back together and the lights came on. Taking it to a shop would spend my RTE money, so I gotta fix it myself.

Thanks again,

Dan
 

DannyDisco

Well-known member
Aug 9, 2005
910
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Ummm, ok, this is I think I got it #34 or so...... In the wiring loom coming from the grommit in the trans tunnel behind the gear selector the wires split to go to two connectors, one set of wires had mainly blue wires, one had mainly orange wires. The one with the blue wires ran to a black connector (10 in, 10 out) and the orange went to a white connector.

Coming into the black connector was a wire with very loose black stuff around it (sticky like electrical/friction tape, but no seems like on a shrink wrap). Other than the VERY LOOSE sticky black stuff the wire (silver metal) had no insulation on it, just bare metal strands. The wire metal was exposed for maybe 1/8 inch back from the connector. I fiddled with the wire examining it, put the key in, started the truck and had no warning lights. Comparing one side of wires to the other side of wires I deduced that the unknown bare wire mated to the plain black (no stripe) wire on the other end. So a cut here and a cut there and the two wires now are off of the connector and now have their own connector on the side and I have had no warning lights yet. (15 minutes)

If the pattern continues the lights will come back after awhile. I'll keep posting to let anyone bored enough to find this post know what happens with the damned lights/code.

Dan
 
D

DR-DEATH

Guest
P0705 (PRNDL INPUT)"

HI FROM THIS CODE I ASSUME THAT IT IS AN AUTO GEARBOX IF THIS IS SO THE (PRNDL) WILL REF TO PARK,REVERSE, NEUTRAL DRIVE , INDICTATION LIGHTS THIS WILL BE FED FROM SOME HALL AFFECT SENSORS TO THE AUTO GEARBOX ECU.YOU MIGHT FIND THAT THERE IS A LIGHT INOPERATIVE & THIS IS WHY THE FAULT IS SET. THE Transmission Range Sensor Circuit IS A SENSOR FROM THE GEARBOX TO THE ECU. I HOPE THIS HELPS
 

DannyDisco

Well-known member
Aug 9, 2005
910
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Dammit, once again awoke to a safe moded transmission. I'll try to pull the sensor tomorrow, clean it, replace it and see if that works out. If not my only choice is to replace the sensor and then if that doesn't work it'll have to go to a shop to spent some of my lift/tire money, so it'd better damned well work!

Nathan, all of the lights on the shifter surround have worked the few times I've run the truck without the safe mode coming on, so that shouldn't be it.

All, still not sure about the sensor being the problem as it would be the world's largest coincidence for it to go out at the same time as when I put took the center console to install the CB. Errr, so damned irritating!!!!! I need a beer.......

Dan
 

DannyDisco

Well-known member
Aug 9, 2005
910
0
No headway, more clues

Pulled the sensor in between rain storms yesterday and everything appears to be fine. frilled the rivits out and the TSB style water ingress is nowhere to be found. Another clue did surface though....

With the sensor out (ie unplugged) I couldn't get my key out of the ignition. This makes sense as there is nothing to tell the computer that it's in park, so no key. If I plug the sensor back in then it'll let me retrieve my key. After noticing this I tired an experiment. With everything attatched I put the truck into reverse, turned the key to off, and then back to on and I got an R in the odometer readout that went out after ~1/2 second. Sure enough it does this for park, reverse, neutral, and drive!!!!

Could this be a clue that I have maybe a bad ground somewhere that is shorting out with too much voltage after the truck is "on" for a second???

Anyone who figures this damned thing out before I do will get a 6-pack of Blue Moon!!!!

Dan

PS: After dropping it off at a local "euro car mechanic" I was told that they "weren't sure" and therefore they "wouldn't charge you for the 4 hours of labor trying to diagnose the problem" !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :mad:
 

MUD RIDE

Well-known member
Apr 19, 2004
142
0
56
Stafford, VA
Dan,
I have not gone to the lengths as you, but I am pretty sure I have the same problem...same code etc. Although I have intermittant wierd electrical problems, the major one is the same. Have you resolved yours yet?

Dave
 

DannyDisco

Well-known member
Aug 9, 2005
910
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I took off the sensor, blew some dust out of it, re-rivitted it, put it back on and I haven't had the problem since. I also went through and checked, cleaned and tightened every wire/connection under the center console. I haven't had the problem in ~5 weeks now. Nothing deffinate unfortunately but paying the cost for the sensor (~$200 from Rovers North) might be what you have to do.

Dan
 

DannyDisco

Well-known member
Aug 9, 2005
910
0
Dave,

Sorry about taking so long to reply but yes that's the little bugger. Try not to take off/loosen the adjustment screw where the shift rod attaches to the arm, you'll never get it back into the "sweet spot". The casings of the sensor are held together by a bunch of rivets which drill out easily enough. Hopefully it works and make sure to take your time and do it right otherwise you'll be going absolutely no where.

Dan
 

MUD RIDE

Well-known member
Apr 19, 2004
142
0
56
Stafford, VA
No problem at all. I finally tackled it today. ...although I did take loose the shift rod. Rather than tear it apart, I just ordered a new one from AB. Hopefully this will be the ticket!

During your trials with this nonsense, did you exerience any issues with your window switches?
Dave
 

DannyDisco

Well-known member
Aug 9, 2005
910
0
Hmmm, window switches all seem to work fine with the exception of the passenger side window which won't roll down due to breaking those POS teflon roller wheels. Everything was cured by cleaning the sensor and spending ~2 hours getting the shift rod linkage back to "perfect". Now I just have to deal with the mud I sucked into my MAF!

Dan