Fuel Pump Replacement w/ non-Rover Pump

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boulderbear

Guest
The follow is my experience in replacing the fuel pump using the non-LR part number listed in the Tech section - Parts Cross Reference . This is for a 4.0 ? ?97, ?98 & ?99 D1 (different part numbers are listed for ?96 4.0 & the earlier 3.9). This is a really easy low tech job and about as easy to access as anything on your truck. It cost me just under $100 for all the parts and an extra 10 minutes to take apart the assembly to put the new pump in.

*Normal Disclaimer: I take responsibility for what I do on my truck, you do the same. This is a great and easy way to save quite a bit of coin and get a high quality pump w/ a lifetime guarantee; however, it is not a genuine LR part. Take your time and don?t break anything or you may have to buy a new pump assembly!

Notes:
- have a fire extinguisher on hand
- it?s easiest to do this w/ a ? tank or less, but can still be done w/ any amount of fuel in tank
- the (numbers) below correspond to pictures

* What you need before you take anything apart:
- New fuel pump: MASTER E3270 ? ask for pump from ?96 Chevy Impala V8 SS
- New pump filter: MASTER FS22
- ?? Fuel injection line: ~6? (note - regular fuel line isn?t flexible enough for the spring loaded assembly)*
- 2x ?? fuel line clamps: note ? fuel line clamps, not regular hose clamps are recommended
- Fuel pressure gauge: if you have a Disco you should have this in your toolbox

* I originally tried to reuse the accordion fuel line from the pump to the top of the assembly but I could not get the pump side that originally pushed onto the 5/8? barbed end of the old FP to seal on the ?? straight connection of the new pump even w/ a clamp (See pic).
 

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boulderbear

Guest
Relieve the fuel pressure in the system (assuming you have any). I put a rag under the rail test coupling and depressed the central pin carefully w/ a screwdriver till the pressure was gone. Now open the back door, unscrew the carpet trim crossbar and fold back the carpet to reveal the round access panel. Undo the 6 screws and take off the panel. Clean & vacuum the area around the top of the tank where the assembly is to prevent contaminants getting into the tank! Now here is the big question ? how do you know your pump is bad? Uncouple the outgoing line from the pump and attach your fuel gauge. Go turn your key to the on position without engaging the starter. This should activate the pump for ~5 seconds and you should be able to hear it and take a reading. The fuel rail is supposed to be 35 ? 38psi so your reading at the pump should be that or higher. Remember, if the pump doesn?t activate, make sure it?s not a fuse or relay issue before you start pulling the pump. That said, and knowing the pump is bad, disconnect the wire harness, outgoing & return fuel lines and breather. Unscrew the fuel pump ring-lock (mine was metal w/ raised ridges that I carefully tapped with a screw driver & mallet to unscrew). I noted and marked its position before I unscrewed it and during reassembly I simply took it back to this position seeing as I didn?t have the specialty tool to take it to the specific torque stated in the manual. Carefully remove the fuel pump assembly by pulling straight up at first then tilt to let out as much gas as you can. Keep in mind the fuel level float is attach to the assembly and you don?t want to bend or break anything so you?ll have to tilt the assembly as you lift it out of the tank. The assembly is a really tight fit into the tank O-ring seal so it will take some effort.

I carefully popped off the float for ease of handling the assembly; if you do this be very careful not to break the tabs that hold it in place! Separate the electrical connection from the pump (1), remove two screws (2) holding the fuel line retaining bracket and remove the hose from the pump (3) and the outlet connection above it (4). Push in the four tabs along the lower part of the housing (5) and separate the two halves ? the two halves will still be connected via the return line on the assembly.
 

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boulderbear

Guest
Take out the pump w/ the pump filter. Pry off the filter (6) and reuse the plastic bracket (7) on the bottom of the pump and the two rubber boots that go on the end of it (you?ll see the rubber boots in the lower half of the assembly when you take out the old pump). Make sure and clean out any particulate you find inside the assemble
 

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boulderbear

Guest
Put the old bracket on the new pump then attach the new pump filter. Add the two rubber boots and put the new pump inside the assembly (you?ll have to bend up the pump filter like the old one was). Then snap the two halves of the assembly back together. Remove the old accordion fuel line from the retaining bracket and slide the fuel injection line through the rubber grommet in the retaining bracket. This is a real tight fit so you can use a small amount of new motor oil to lubricate. Attach the fuel line to the new pump (3) and secure it w/ a clamp. (2) Reattach the fuel line retaining bracket then attach fuel line to assembly (4) and secure w/ clamp. Insert electrical connection (1) ? this is an exact fit & polarized correctly. Reattach the float if you removed it and you?re ready to install by reversing the process of removal. I reused the tank seal O-ring as it was still in very good shape. I suggest you install it around the tank opening first then put the assembly in rather than it other way around. Now hook everything back up except the outgoing line and use it to test pressure. This pump is rated at 60psi I believe. When you?re done with this, reconnect the outgoing line, start your engine and take a test drive then check for leaks and the pressure at the rail before you replace the access panel, carpet and trim crossbar. If you haven?t already, you should put in a new inline fuel filter that can accessed via the right rear wheel well as a matter of maintenance. If you still have low pressure at the rail with the new pump and inline fuel filter you should suspect the fuel regulator and/ or leaky injectors. I had low pressure & drop off to zero when the key turned off because I couldn?t get the old accordion fuel line on the assembly to seal around the outlet on the new pump, so I had to take out the assembly and replace the old line with new fuel injector line.

Hope this helps & good luck,

-B
 

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boulderbear

Guest
Ready to go in:
 

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SuperJ

Active member
Nov 28, 2005
44
0
Minnesota
Well done! Using 13mm oetiker clamps would eliminate the guesswork of how tight to make the clamps, and ensure no electrolytic corrosion issues in the tank as they are made from passivated 409.
 
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boulderbear

Guest
Thanks guys.......


Do You Have The Part # For D1 96
Patrick, try here in the
Tech Section - Parts Cross Reference


Where did you source these parts? the 'Zone, NAPA?
Alex, 'Zone carries the Master brand, but you can get the equivalent pump pretty much anywhere. Price can vary substantially though.......at least it did here.


Folks, this job is so much easier than you think it will be.

Good luck & let me know if you have anymore ?s

-B
 

Thomas1968

Well-known member
Oct 19, 2004
179
0
Canada
The pump in your picture is a LR # 3926 (pretty sure)..looks like the same one I have in my 96' 4.0...should be able to use the same pump boulderbear did.

That pump has no evap on it. I always thought the 97's and newer had the WFX101020 pump with evap?

What type of fuel line did you use for in tank? I tried looking for the type rated for in tank use (J10 rating I think.) but I could not find it locally.
 
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boulderbear

Guest
Your right Thomas, mid '97 & newer D1s have the advance evap system. Biggest difference in pump assemblies are the connections on the top (electrical not fuel lines) - older w/ 1 plug & newer w/ 2 plugs & the evap hose connection (I think that's what it is). Of all the wires that go into the assembly only 2 hook to the pump (+ & - for power). As long as the plug that clips directly to the pump is the same on both I don't see why you can't use the replacement I did above for the older style pump. I'd pull the pump on my '96 and tell you, but it's something like 2 degrees and snowing outside. :eek:
 

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Thomas1968

Well-known member
Oct 19, 2004
179
0
Canada
2 Degrees...that's warm....we were at about -9 degrees today going lower tommorow they say. Welcome to Canada. (already plugging the truck in overnight).

Did you use regular fuel injection hose to connect the pump to the assembly (in tank)? I read somewhere else they would not last long in gasoline....not sure if it's true or not.
 

robertofollia

Well-known member
Aug 3, 2005
555
2
My home is where my Disco is
Man, that's awesome. I will print it to keep as a reference for mine. By the way, has anybody seen a Disco2 pump?
It is said that the filter is an integral part, so when it becomes clogged, one has to part wit 300 bucks and buy a new pump. not the wisest option for a V8

Regards,
Robert
 
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boulderbear

Guest
2 Degrees...that's warm....we were at about -9 degrees today going lower tommorow they say. Welcome to Canada. (already plugging the truck in overnight).
Wow, our high today is 6F.....your right, we're warm. Every degree lower at this level is exponential in my opinion. Made big points w/ the wife by pulling the roofrack & parking her Disco in the garage out of the snow........without even being asked :cool:


Did you use regular fuel injection hose to connect the pump to the assembly (in tank)? I read somewhere else they would not last long in gasoline....not sure if it's true or not.
The stuff I used I got from NAPA and was very flexible & rated for submersion in fuel.....it's used stock in some other fuel tank. It was spendy stuff. :eek: Make sure and ask; know what you're getting for sure! Good point to bring up Thomas.
 

Thomas1968

Well-known member
Oct 19, 2004
179
0
Canada
Thomas: What type of block heater are you using?


I believe all Canadian Rovers came with a Block Heater (and cold package)...so it's the stock LR one.

Where I am we get extreme heat in the summer (not humid though) and extreme cold in the winter. I'm about an hour from the Montana border or the North Dakota border (depending if you take a left or right...sort of).