Going for it on the door locks!!!

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damnhiggins

Guest
That's IT! I freakin had it with those stupid latches,
I'm down to one consistently working door.
Maybe it's just me but I don't need in the rear passanger side quite as often as I do the front.
Got the passanger door ripped apart, window out and now I'm staring at the linkage which is ridiculous! Naturally I'm going on without writing down diagrams, taking pictures or anything so I can put the thing back together NO!
I will however take pictures of the driver's side as I go and post them so everyone as dumb as me can try to do it themselves.

Here's my favour, I need any diagrams from shop manuals for any or all of the 5 doors I'm about to tackle. Also stereo wiring diagrams would help as well.

I hate to say it but I've been living with this problem for 2 or 3 years now and I'm only fixing it to sell it! Talk about cruely to myself!

Anyone else noticed an ass load of rust under the rear carpet or did mine just come from the bottom of the ocean.
Thanks for listening and any help is appreciated
Kyle
 
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damnhiggins

Guest
Got the lock mechanism out
That little freakin spring is responsilbe for all that trouble!!!!
Now I've got to get some springs and figure out how they go in there.
 

El_Cid_2000

Well-known member
Jul 9, 2004
570
0
Charleston, South Carolina
I just bought a set of five off eBay.co.uk as well. As soon as they come in I'm working on the front passenger's door, rear driver's door and the rear cargo door. I think I read on here somewhere a while back that it was like 2 - 3 hours PER door? Is this right?

PS: Remember that the springs are "handed" so make sure you replace exactly what you take off.

Thanks,
Michael
 

Robbie

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
1,463
1
NOVA
El_Cid_2000 said:
I just bought a set of five off eBay.co.uk as well. As soon as they come in I'm working on the front passenger's door, rear driver's door and the rear cargo door. I think I read on here somewhere a while back that it was like 2 - 3 hours PER door? Is this right?

Hey Michael, that's how long it took me to do the rear cargo door. First and only time so far I replaced a spring. It is just long and tedious to disconnect and reconnect all the rods and pins when removing the mechanism. Then, since I didn't pull the mechanism from the truck itself, had to put the spring in in-situ. This was frustrating as there is very little room. But after a bunch of swearing, it popped in somehow. I may be able to knock down the time a little for a second door, but it will still take a little while just considering everything that needs to come apart and then go back together.
 

El_Cid_2000

Well-known member
Jul 9, 2004
570
0
Charleston, South Carolina
Robbie said:
Hey Michael, that's how long it took me to do the rear cargo door. First and only time so far I replaced a spring. It is just long and tedious to disconnect and reconnect all the rods and pins when removing the mechanism. Then, since I didn't pull the mechanism from the truck itself, had to put the spring in in-situ. This was frustrating as there is very little room. But after a bunch of swearing, it popped in somehow. I may be able to knock down the time a little for a second door, but it will still take a little while just considering everything that needs to come apart and then go back together.

Damn, three hours is a loooong time for that little spring. Would it be easier to completely remove the mechanism?

I might have the wife help me as she has tiny little hands and arms! :D She loves spending her free Saturdays working on the Rover.

Thanks,
Michael
 

Robbie

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
1,463
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yeah, if you remove it completely from the door and set it on a bench, should be a lot easier. but i also think removing it might cause some issues in terms of remembering where everything goes when you put it back together. there is just a lot of crap that needs to be disconnected and then connected again. maybe i'll finally do my driver's door and this time will take some pix.
 
S

studio54

Guest
ok that didnt work??????????

try this
 

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Robbie

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
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finally did the driver's door. a little bit of a bitch to get the thing out, but was easier than the rear cargo door. Took about 2 hours total. I now have all working doors again!

took some pictures this time. will try and load them up tomorrow night.
 
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DiscoveringTheDisco

Guest
Yup that phillipstuart33 on Ebay UK is a lifesaver fer sure! Ordered me up a set of three last week...only my driver's side was f'ing up but I decided to be prepared for next time. Shipping was unbelieveably fast, mine only took 4 days to arrive!

The instructions that came with were ok...diagrams sucked and there was alot of this "you may have to remove this" and "there are 2 bolts to remove, or maybe 6" kinda talk. Took me about 2 hours for the driver's door...overall not to bad. I found that the key for me was to remove the latch with all the linkages attached to the LATCH ASSEMBLY...that way when I put it back in I could easily see "ok...so that linkage doesn't reach here but does reach here...hmmm". Stupid approach I admit but it worked.
 

Kavic

Well-known member
Nov 2, 2004
1,216
0
Ashburn, VA
Robbie, Looking forward to those pictures, my springs came in on Tuesday. Of course, I'm sure you want to keep up your skills so I've got a couple of doors you can practice on. :D :D :D
 

Robbie

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
1,463
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man Mike, that is exactly what I was thinking. I could become a professional spring fixer and charge for my services :D

yeah, the instructions that came with the springs aren't all that great, and I did what Jonathan did, took the whole thing out with all the rods and arms attached. doing that and referring to the manual diagrams got it all back together fairly easy. a real pain in the ass was that you have to raise up the window frame to get the thing out. raising it up wasn't bad, it was the reconnecting of the power mirror cable that took me forever, as that comes unconnected when it is all raised up. you will need a torx bit (i believe t-40?) to unbolt one of the bolts for the window frame.
 

Eric N.

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
3,980
0
Falls Church, VA
Are you guys fixing the power door lock actuators or are you fixing some thing else? You telling me that you need to take the window out to replace the door lock actuator.. Man that sucks.. My rear passanger door just went out today.. Funny thing is that my drivers door has been clicking ( but still working ) for 2 years now and the other door just up and dies on me.. Figures..

You really have to take all that apart? Man I hope you all are doing a door latch or some thing else..
 

Robbie

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
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Eric, there's a little spring that keeps the tension either up or down when the door is locked/unlocked. that is what breaks. on the front doors at least, you need to remove what i have circled in red. the blue lines indicate where the window frame rails run down and prevent you from removing the mechanism until the rails are moved up out of the way.
 

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Robbie

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Apr 20, 2004
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the window doesn't come out at all, just the frame is lifted up above the door. i took some pictures and hopefully i remember to post up tonight.
 

Eric N.

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
3,980
0
Falls Church, VA
so wouldn't that keep the black plastic lock piece from staying up when unlocked? If so then that isn't my issue.. The door locks and unlocks just fine just not on it's own (remote or central system) you have to pull it up or push it down by hand. I would think that would be more the actuator then that spring.. Guess I'll find out when I rip it all apart. Was hoping it would be a matter of pulling the door panel off and replacing the part.. Of course silly me for thinking that.. :(
 

Robbie

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
1,463
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yeah, your's sounds more actuator. my lock would still make a vein attempt at popping up, but it couldn't keep it up and solid (that's a softball for you Rob). you would actually need to hold the lock up while opening the door. if it is just the actuator, that is really easy to get to. it is as simple as popping the panel off and removing about 4 bolts and disconnecting the actuator and replacing (think so at least). the actuator in that picture is the rectangularish thing above the 5.