Broken Key Worn Lock

D

D Chapman

Guest
Worn lock cylinders are a common problem in the D1's. It starts off with a sticky lock cylinder and the next thing you know the damn thing will not turn.

Also, the D1 key are cut so thin in the middle, breakage is also a problem.

The lock cylinders are over 300.00, and even then, your key does not match your door key. Here is a quick, cheap fix to get you going again.

-Remove the plastic cover on top of the steering column. Just pry it up slightly and it will pop off.

-Open the access door to the under-dash fuse panel. This can be opened with a flat tip screwdriver or a penny.

-Using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the three screws holding on the bottom steering column cover.

-On the back side (Driver side) of the lock cylinder, you will see 5-wires soldiered to the cylinder; White, Yellow, Brown, Green, and a White with red stripe. About an inch from the cylinder, cut these wire off.

-Before wiring these wires into a switch, the wires may need to be lengthened several inches or even feet, depending on your location of the new switches.

-You will need two switches and a momentary switch or button.

--On the first switch, connect the White and Yellow wires to one pole (ON). On the second pole, connect the Brown wire.

---On the second switch, connect the Green wire to one pole (ON). On the other pole, connect the Brown wire.

----On the starter switch, connect the White/Red wire to one pole. Connect the Brown wire to the other pole.

Now, when switch #1 is turned on, you will have ACC power. I.E. Radio. When the #2 switch if turned on, you will then have ignition power. And, of course, when the starter button is pushed, your starter will run.

Be sure to use 30 amp+ switches and 12ga+ wire.
 
D

D Chapman

Guest
Now, the steering wheel will be locked. There are several ways to get around this.

1) Remove the lock cylinder completely. It a bear to do and basically has to be broken off. I used a close quarters bar for this

2) Remove the actual steering wheel lock from the cylinder. With some prying and pounding, the lock can be removed through the bottom of the cylinder.

3) Figure out what wires trigger the lock and add another switch.
 

jimjet

Well-known member
Feb 22, 2005
3,257
2
L.I.N.Y./Daytona Beach Fl
I was to fast for ya

sorry.

Nice tech stuff

will this shit happen to my 04.
it happened to my 98 2 times in one year and twice afterwards.
fourth part was from A.B. and never happened again

Jim
 

Toby

New member
Jun 8, 2004
2
0
I'm about to do this this weekend because coincidentally my lock is in the process of dying. I'm finding it hard to find 30A+ switches so I thought I'd get a few relays and use those instead along with lower amperage switches.

I'm planning on mounting the switches on the side of the instrument panel. I dunno about NAS Discos but on my Australian one there are existing switches there to control rear wiper, rear demister, rear washer and something else, and there are 4 dummy switches (I think). I plan on prying off a couple of the fixed dummy switches that aren't used and gluing the switch faces on to the real switches I'm putting on for a stealth look. I've got 2 switches in mind, one off/on/on rocker switch, 20A @ 12V and one momentary push button 16A @ 12V. Both fit, although the rocker will require some cutting. I'll wire them up with some 70A relays, because the wiring diagram in my Haynes manual shows the ignition is fused for 60A.
 

cdmbrennan

Well-known member
Feb 23, 2005
391
7
Creve Coeur, Missouri
D Chapman said:
Now, when switch #1 is turned on, you will have ACC power. I.E. Radio. When the #2 switch if turned on, you will then have ignition power. And, of course, when the starter button is pushed, your starter will run.

Be sure to use 30 amp+ switches and 12ga+ wire.

Dan- this is great info. I've been looking for help installing a push button ig for awhile- I'm less than decent at anything electrical.

I'm assuming that the way you shut off the engine once you have it running is to just flip the switches? And you're referring to Double Pole Single Throw 30A/12V switches, right?

Any idea if the stock switches (cruise control, fog light, etc) are suitable? I've got an extra console with two extra switches hooked up to nothing that I'd like to use.

Thanks for the help.

Cb.
 
D Chapman said:
Now, the steering wheel will be locked. There are several ways to get around this.

1) Remove the lock cylinder completely. It a bear to do and basically has to be broken off. I used a close quarters bar for this

2) Remove the actual steering wheel lock from the cylinder. With some prying and pounding, the lock can be removed through the bottom of the cylinder.

3) Figure out what wires trigger the lock and add another switch.

It is much less brutal to use a sharp chisel and gently drive the shear bolts to the point where they can be spun out by hand.

Also, if one doesn't want to go to the trouble of rewiring the switches, the electrical portion of the switch can be removed fro the lock by removing the tiny little philips screws and then using a screwdriver or similar tool to turn the switch. When replacing the locks on client's cars, it is not uncommon for me to do this and returnt he vehicle while awaiting part on order.

PT
 

p m

Administrator
Staff member
Apr 19, 2004
15,617
838
58
La Jolla, CA
www.3rj.org
Nope. PartsExpress had 40A relays for $2 on special, and $1.70 for a nice socket with 8" long, 16GA pigtail (try getting that). Shipping was cheap, too.
 

MonLand

Well-known member
Jun 29, 2005
323
2
Herndon, VA - USA
D Chapman said:
Worn lock cylinders are a common problem in the D1's. It starts off with a sticky lock cylinder and the next thing you know the damn thing will not turn.

Happened to me.... This is very gradual. Of course, I decided to do something about it after spending 45 mins trying to turn it in a freezing winter night.....
I had a little less radical approach, I undid the lock and used a file to grind all the bits that were preventing it from turning when the key was in.
https://d90rox.kicks-ass.org/DiscoNeiman/
 

Buddy

Well-known member
Nov 6, 2006
2,839
1
Central NC
D Chapman said:
-You will need two switches and a momentary switch or button.

--On the first switch, connect the White and Yellow wires to one pole (ON). On the second pole, connect the Brown wire.

---On the second switch, connect the Green wire to one pole (ON). On the other pole, connect the Brown wire.

----On the starter switch, connect the White/Red wire to one pole. Connect the Brown wire to the other pole.

I'm not actually planing on doing this any time soon but i'm curious could you not use a 3 position switch instead of the two toggles? or do the aux and run circuits need to be closed at the same time? In which case I guess you could still use a special 3 position switch. I think the old Series Rovers had some of those.

I'm thinking that when you switch from Aux. to Run that you open the Aux. Circuit and close the run Circuit. Or am I wrong on this? Do they both have to stay open?
 

hjnorman

Well-known member
Oct 3, 2006
51
0
I am attempting this this weekend and have everything ready. I couldn't find a momentary switch that could handle 30A so I bought an automtive relay and lesser amp momentary switch. However, after looking around and searching about relays, I am very confused on how to wire the relay in with the brown wire, red/white starter wire, and the switch.

Any help/suggestions? I'd like to get this doen this weekend. Thanks
 

msggunny

Well-known member
Aug 3, 2007
2,978
3
Holly Ridge, NC
Looks like this has been dormant for a while.

How did the mods go?

Looking at doing something similar this weekend, or at least before i roll out for deployment.

Thanks.
 
D

D Chapman

Guest
Still works fine on both trucks. Silver truck has been like this for 2 or 3 years.