ARP says you're supposed to re-torque them. Why change to bolts just because it wasn't done right?
Because thats a lot of extra work when you can just use the correct bolts that don't need to be re-torqued.
ARP says you're supposed to re-torque them. Why change to bolts just because it wasn't done right?
- re-torque both sides higher and see what happens?
ARP recommends 100 ft lb. If you're afraid of 100, go 80 or 90.
I couldnt put the studs in by hand.
r.e. doing bolts instead, I got studs so I could just reuse them if I had to do it again. Yes, I plan to use the studs again and I realize the irony, masochism, or whatever label that deserves.
That's what would do since it requires minimal work to put back together. Realistically the gasket is ruined and the head or block could have some damage. If you go the cheap fuck route I wouldn't even bother putting any new parts on it such as valve cover gaskets since it may not work.
If you just use the correct factory parts you won't have to do it again.
So, I think the block thread is fucked.
Tried to snug up #1 today, and it wont torque. After turning and turning, notihng seems to be happening other than the stud being pulled up through the head.
poo
I used the kit from Lucky8. Other than the torque sequence, yes, I followed the directions. Used the ARP ultra lube.
Though I didnt chase them, I did get the studs all the way down.
And to think, all of this could have been avoided by using factory parts...
Not that it matters at this point, why did you not torque in proper sequence? That is a very important step.
The studs should not be blamed for improper installation.