I made a Hi-lift mount out of

• 2" x 1/4 flat steel stock,
• (2) upper shock bushings sets.
• (2) 4"x1/2" bolts.
• (2) 2"x1/2" bolts and
• (2) stainless steel wing nuts with lockwashers a la SIII interior spare tire mount and washers.
• (4) strips of 2in wide rubber (pirated from the broom handle grip).

Costs:

• $7 Steel
• $4 Bolts
• $6 Bushings
• $3 Paint (pro rated used epoxy primer and flat black epoxy top coat)

Construction time: 2hours of actual work (had to measure and engineer stuff). Could make another in 45 mins.

I was actually able to shake the car a foot or two each way by holding on to only the Hi-lift, so I think it will stay there. Bonus: No rattles when the bottom plate is bungeed and the handle is wrapped in pipe insulation.

Procedure:
Take the steel and bend it into a U shape that goes over the side rails of the Roof rack. Drill two half inch holes through both sides of the U. One about 1 1/2" down and one just above where the bottom rail is. If you hold the steel up to the rack you will see where. Paint the steel. Wrap the flat rubber around the bars of the roof rack and then install the short bolt in the bottom hole, sandwiching the rails. take the bushing (pep boys 2.99 each), cut it in half and then take the long bolt and put it though the top holes, then put one half of the bushing on, then the jack, then the other half of the bushing, then a washer, then the wing nut. You need two brackets: one in front, one in back. I used grade 8 bolts on top and metric 8.8 on the bottom where it shows (cool red color) but grade 5 would undoubtedly be ok. No rail drilling needed. Hi-lift comes down in 1min, the whole thing could be removed in 5min. Has not fallen nor have the bolts loosened in the couple months it has been on there. The wing nuts make visual inspection of nut backing off easy and the bungee acts as a back up retention method.