huh, maybe that hp24 part made a bigger diff than I thought it did. :)
370k klicks isn't bad though ~230K miles. I mean, it should last longer than the engine but still...not a complete writeoff.
This is why you need an R380 :cool:
Hey, hey, hey! That is a fabulous and radically under-appreciated engine :-) I put >300k miles on that 750iL (with 4HP24) and the engine didn't quit; the tranny did.
It would actually make a great transplant engine for a RRC or d1 :-) all aluminum, light weight, 300hp/330lbft.. smooooooth...
I know this is an ancient thread but I just want to add a note here: the 1988-1992 E32 M70 V12 BMW (aka: 750i/750iL) made 300hp stock and used the HP22. Also, Dinan Engineering made a twin-turbo version that made >400hp and ~500lb-ft. This turbo car was warrantied to 50K miles.
The tranny...
As I said.
I am not "anti-multimeter".
I am just pro-test-light.. especially for the "gross testing" evolution.
These days, I suspect crappy quality diodes in the H-bridge rectifier as the initial culprit :-)
A test light is also *quite professional*, I and my master mechs have used them for years :p The benefit: you can see it... Especially if you are testing fuses and relays from various locations.
Be careful using the ampere function on your multimeter (*have a spare fuse or two on hand) because...
5th graders are remarkably lucid with basic instructions.. it's us post-puberty types that overcomplicate things. :)
Here is a better description:
0. turn the key OFF
1. Disconnect the Negative Cable from the Battery Terminal.
2. connect a lightbulb (an LED will probably work fine too)...
Step zero: turn the ignition off.
Step one: wire a light between one of the battery terminals and it's lug (in this case, I put the light between the negative lug and the negative terminal cables).
/// result: lightbulb illuminates, indicating current flowing
Step two: Remove all fuses from...
I am dealing with a drain as well; but my NAS 95 disco is running the stock 14CUX computer (aka: "pre-GEMS"). I currently have it narrowed down to the main fuel injection circuit (the 60 amp fuse under the hood) and the alternator circuit.. I suspect the alternator circuit is a red herring (or...
I'm blown away by how much pre-GEMS, pre-OBD2 stick shifts are going for [aka: 1995 NAS manual]. Maybe I'll treat Alfred to a fresh paint job.. and a new driver seat :-)
I have been looking into electric oil boost pumps and am not really satisfied with what I have found so far; the affordable ones are mostly gear pumps.. which tend to shed metal. It may be necessary to convert a drysump scavenger to electric.
That said, an accumulator would be relatively cheap...
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